workhorse_01
Well-Known Member
I find the same thing. Mine had almost no smell. What beautiful yellowish gold. pictures coming tonight. The next batch will go straight in the box from the patch. On the first run I let it hang in the barn for a couple of days, while I got the chamber set up. I think that was a mistake, as a few leaves are a little more gold than I wanted, and I think the smell should be much sweeter. I'll be sticking to the schedule on the next one like glue. Kind of a build it and they will come idea. I waited at the yellow phase too long this run and I think it cost me in sweetness. The smell is not where it should be. From what I've read, and Bob has posted, I think the speed at which we cure from patch to dried stems is how the tobacco becomes sweeter. If I wait an extra day for yellowing @ 105*F- db, I think there is a loss of sweetness. Otherwise why do they give a time frame to ramp up? Why not just say when you're satisfied that enough is yellow begin to ramp up? My great grandfather did this with a log barn, and a fire, with nothing but a mercury thermometer, and they say that every year he had the best quality and the most lbs. per acre of anyone in Kingstree SC. He always received more money for his than his peers.
Below is our recomended curing schedule.
Below is our recomended curing schedule.
Hours | Dry Bulb | Advance Rate | Wet Bulb |
---|---|---|---|
0-24 | 90°-100° | 1°/HR | 95° |
24-48 | 100°-105° | 1°/HR | 102° |
48-72 | 105°-120° | 1°/HR | 105° |
72... | 120°-165° | 1°/HR | 105° Lower Stalk 108° Upper Stalk |
- Do NOT leave 120° Dry Bulb until the tobacco is yellow
- If you use curing gas, do so during 24-48 hour period
- This schedule is tested and proven, some variation may occur depending on your tobacco
- To attain proper Wet Bulb reading change wicks every cure
- Proper Wet Bulb reading is critical to maximize fuel efficiency
- Periodically check Wet Bulb accuracy with a hygrometer
140 ish is when mine smelled the best. By thetime stems dry good almost no smell at all.