DGBAMA Redneck Curing Chamber Build

[Chicken]

I just unplug the 150watt bulb. Put the crockpot in the kiln with water in it plug it in. Close the vents.

yep. in the morning they will be very soft. so then you can '' hand '' them up, and you got stored bacca till it's time to shred it, [ which i have some shredding to do today myself ]

 

[DGBAMA]

The experimental batch that was crumbly dry last night spent the day at 90 deg & 76% while I was at work. They are now "rustly" but not crumbly. this would be "low case" I think?

Time to put them up and get ready for a run of the good leaves.

 

[Knucklehead]

Great build, great thread. I like the way you adapted to your conditions to turn around a bad situation. two thumbs up.

 

[DGBAMA]

Great build, great thread. I like the way you adapted to your conditions to turn around a bad situation. two thumbs up.

Just got it cleaned up. Looks better now. Handed and tagged.

 

[johnlee1933]

Just got it cleaned up. Looks better now. Handed and tagged.

That looks fine. Are you dry enough you don't need to worry about mold?

 

[DGBAMA]

That looks fine. Are you dry enough you don't need to worry about mold?

They were crispy and not handlable last night. Now just soft enough to handle without crumbling so should be ok. What is best humidity for storage? Mold IS always a worry in our climate.

 

[Knucklehead]

I buy the vapor proof bags from Don and store them inside the house. 5 lb. and the 9x22 bags. The tobacco will occasionally need to be misted with water and brought up in case for shredding, but no chance for mold unless you seal it up wet. If you accidentally get it too moist, just leave the bag open until it dries down enough to reseal.

http://wholeleaftobaccollc.com/forum/showthread.php?418-Vapor-Proof-Bags

 

[Chicken]

is that ALUMINUM TAPE you used for marking them?

ive used it in the past for that same purpose and it worked great,

i got me a lot of bacca that is ready to be handed up also, maybe i'll get to that later.

 

[workhorse_01]

If you stay below 70% RH mold wont be an issue. I figured you left them out to let the ambient RH bring them in to high case for you.

They were crispy and not handlable last night. Now just soft enough to handle without crumbling so should be ok. What is best humidity for storage? Mold IS always a worry in our climate.

 

[DGBAMA]

is that ALUMINUM TAPE you used for marking them?

ive used it in the past for that same purpose and it worked great,

i got me a lot of bacca that is ready to be handed up also, maybe i'll get to that later.

Good eye Chicken. It is. Left over from sealing the seams of the kiln. Was gonna use masking tape or make tags; on a whim decided to try the foil tape.

 

[DGBAMA]

The next 48-72 hours is going to drive me crazy......first run is in the kiln (Hopefully) yellowing and all I can do is try to keep temp and humidity in line and hope for good results.

 

[AmaxB]

Am liking your thread DG very interesting. I like that you have taken an old approach and added your own twist to it.

 

[DGBAMA]

Am liking your thread DG very interesting. I like that you have taken an old approach and added your own twist to it.

Just trying to effectively apply what I have learned here and hoping it works. My setup is based on mostly your chamber and Bob's cozy can and low cost. Thanks to both of you for sharing your builds.

I Do wish the water heater thermostat held a better tolerance between the on & off temps. Thinking attaching it to an aluminum "heat sink" may help but not sure.

 

[deluxestogie]

I Do wish the water heater thermostat held a better tolerance between the on & off temps. Thinking attaching it to an aluminum "heat sink" may help but not sure.

A heat sink will shorten the lag between changes in air temp and the temp registered on the back of the thermostat.

In my Cozy Can, the thermostat is external, but slapped firmly against the metal can, which serves as a giant heat sink, and the insulation blanket covers it all. For that, I believe much of the temp swing (+- ~5ºF) is the result of the thermal latency of the Crock Pot crockery.

In my wooden baby kiln (really baby--27"x12"x11"), the thermostat is anchored within a square hole cut through the wall, and is well insulated on the exterior. It also runs about +- 5ºF.

Bob

 

[AmaxB]

Just trying to effectively apply what I have learned here and hoping it works. My setup is based on mostly your chamber and Bob's cozy can and low cost. Thanks to both of you for sharing your builds.

I Do wish the water heater thermostat held a better tolerance between the on & off temps. Thinking attaching it to an aluminum "heat sink" may help but not sure.

That or you could get a cheap PID with internal SSR (saves wiring) cost about 30 bucks +-. But would try the heat sink 1st see if ya like that with your set-up you got space I'd do a square bout 1/16th thick and 5"x5" with some kind of stand off/s so it is not on the wall to get ambient temperatures.

 

[DGBAMA]

Thanks Bob. I found a heat sink I will attach to the sensing part of the wh thermostat next time the door is open. Hopefully it will stabilize on/off temps.

 

[AmaxB]

That looks good I was going to suggest one from a broken Xbox

 

[AmaxB]

If that does not work try a PID temperature Control (no ramping) wired to kick heater on off and a thermal couple. It would do the job but you would have to ramp manually. However if the chamber is full of leaf it takes awhile for every thing to catch up. So manual can be done without to much pain.

 

[AmaxB]

This is what I am talking about....http://www.ebay.com/itm/PID-Digital...er-K-ThermoCouple-Senor-25A-SSR-/321082154570

 

[DGBAMA]

This is what I am talking about....http://www.ebay.com/itm/PID-Digital...er-K-ThermoCouple-Senor-25A-SSR-/321082154570

Know of one that reads F instead of C?

Would really like something that can control both on and off set-points.