Help with fertilizer

[MRM]

So... I finally got my soil analysis results and the state of Arkansas no longer makes fertilizer recommendations other than for sod.

The problem I am having is finding the right kind of fertilizer here in my area. My garden area isn't near big enough for a custom mix (1000 lb min).
Super Rainbow 6 6 18 was recommended to me by the Kentucky ag agent as well as in prior posts on here.
Finding super rainbow 6 6 18 isn't happening in this area and I'm sure shipping would be a bit expensive.

Are there any other recommendations for fertilizer or should I get individual elements and mix myself. I can find multitudes of fertilizer but it all has alot of urea and chloride.
Attached is a copy of my analysis

 

[GreenDragon]

Do plants typically grow OK in your yard without lots of soil amendments or fertilizers? If so, you should be fine with an "all-purpose", "garden", or "tomato" type fertilizer such as an 8-8-8 or 10-10-10. Just make sure the label doesn't list "muriate" in it. I prefer to do several 1/4 strength applications throughout the year instead of one large dose.

 

[GreenDragon]

Also, you will have more luck finding non-grass specific fertilizers at your local nursery.

 

[MRM]

Do plants typically grow OK in your yard without lots of soil amendments or fertilizers? If so, you should be fine with an "all-purpose", "garden", or "tomato" type fertilizer such as an 8-8-8 or 10-10-10. Just make sure the label doesn't list "muriate" in it. I prefer to do several 1/4 strength applications throughout the year instead of one large dose.

I used to grow lots of peas, some squash and tomatoes. They all grew well except when excessive rain fell. Lost 80 tomato plants due to rain 4 yrs ago.
Haven't had a garden for the last 3 yrs..
Thanks for the tip

 

[deluxestogie]

For tobacco, an ideal pH range is 5.7 to 6.2 (with a max of maybe 6.5). The effect of a higher pH is that tobacco may not absorb certain nutrients, even if they are present in adequate concentrations. On the favorable side, adding a fertilizer may somewhat lower the pH all on its own. I would be inclined to hold off on an acidifier (like sulfur, or other supplements used for blueberries and azaleas), and just go with the fertilizer.

If you can locate a "low chlorine" vegetable fertilizer (I simply use 10 : 10 : 10), you can apply it at the rate specified for tomatoes.

Bob

 

[MRM]

For tobacco, an ideal pH range is 5.7 to 6.2 (with a max of maybe 6.5). The effect of a higher pH is that tobacco may not absorb certain nutrients, even if they are present in adequate concentrations. On the favorable side, adding a fertilizer may somewhat lower the pH all on its own. I would be inclined to hold off on an acidifier (like sulfur, or other supplements used for blueberries and azaleas), and just go with the fertilizer.

If you can locate a "low chlorine" vegetable fertilizer (I simply use 10 : 10 : 10), you can apply it at the rate specified for tomatoes.

Bob

I will look for that, thanks deluxe.

 

[ChinaVoodoo]

From what I'm reading, you need to add about 150lbs N/acre, and 200lbs K/acre, and zero phosphorous. This is about 150g/100 square feet, and 200g/100 square feet, respectively.

One way to do this is with potassium nitrate. 13-0-46. First let's calculate the amount needed for potassium.
200g = 0.46(X)
X = 200gK/0.46
X = 434gK per 100 square feet
So you add about a pound of that stuff to every 100 square feet of garden.

But how much nitrogen is in that?
434*0.13 = 56g
You still need 94g

You can get that 94g with bloodmeal 12-0-0
94g = 0.12X
X = 94/0.12
X = 783g

So one solution is 434g potassium nitrate, + 783g bloodmeal per 100 square feet.

There are all sorts of ways to accomplish your needs. It just takes a bit of math. Just be sure to avoid potassium chloride.

 

[ChinaVoodoo]

I have usually used alfalfa pellets as fertilizer. You can get it at a feed store. I don't know if there's horses in your area. It requires a bit of prep, in that you should rehydrate and let it compost for a couple days before application. If you're interested, I'll show the math for that.

 

[deluxestogie]

the state of Arkansas no longer makes fertilizer recommendations other than for sod.

I could swear that I saw actual farms in June 2019, when I drove across the state (twice) on I-40. It's kind of depressing that the Arkansas "Agricultural Extension" has given up on actual agriculture.

Bob

 

[MRM]

I could swear that I saw actual farms in June 2019, when I drove across the state (twice) on I-40. It's kind of depressing that the Arkansas "Agricultural Extension" has given up on actual agriculture.

Bob

Our agriculture dwindles more each year, it really is sad.

 

[MRM]

From what I'm reading, you need to add about 150lbs N/acre, and 200lbs K/acre, and zero phosphorous. This is about 150g/100 square feet, and 200g/100 square feet, respectively.

One way to do this is with potassium nitrate. 13-0-46. First let's calculate the amount needed for potassium.
200g = 0.46(X)
X = 200gK/0.46
X = 434gK per 100 square feet
So you add about a pound of that stuff to every 100 square feet of garden.

But how much nitrogen is in that?
434*0.13 = 56g
You still need 94g

You can get that 94g with bloodmeal 12-0-0
94g = 0.12X
X = 94/0.12
X = 783g

So one solution is 434g potassium nitrate, + 783g bloodmeal per 100 square feet.

There are all sorts of ways to accomplish your needs. It just takes a bit of math. Just be sure to avoid potassium chloride.

Now this right here is just pure awesomeness. Excellent and very informative.
I spoke to the fertilizer guy at my local farmers coop this afternoon and his recommendation was extremely close to this one, except you went into way more detail.
I really appeeciate the time and effort for your answer.

 

[MRM]

I have usually used alfalfa pellets as fertilizer. You can get it at a feed store. I don't know if there's horses in your area. It requires a bit of prep, in that you should rehydrate and let it compost for a couple days before application. If you're interested, I'll show the math for that.

I would like to see the figures on the alfalfa.
A coworker has recommended it also.
It is very common here, the feed store where I buy my dog food always has alfalfa pellets.

 

[ChinaVoodoo]

Alfalfa varies in NPK, depending on the product. The one available to me only listed the protein content. Protein content÷6.25=Nitrogen content, so I knew the nitrogen was 2.6%. The phosphorus and potassium I estimated by averaging all of the available products I saw online. So I estimated those at 0.6% P, and 2.0%K.

So I estimated my NPK to be 2.6-0.6-2.0

However, this is organic, and not all of these nutrients will break down. The Internet seems to indicate that in the first year of application, 25% of the N, 60% of the phosphorus, and 90% of the potassium become available in a product like alfalfa, or vetch.
Because of that, I recalculated the effective npk to be 0.65-0.35-1.8.

In the second year, an average of another 8% of the nitrogen applied the year before becomes available, so in year two, if you apply the same amount, the effective npk becomes 0.85-0.35-1.8

Off the top of my head, requirements for tobacco is about 150-70-350 lbs/ac.
lbs/ac is almost the same as g/100'sq... a number that actually makes sense.

So to get 150g/100'sq of N, you need :

150/0.0065= 23,000g or 23kg or 51lbs alfalfa per 100 square feet.

How much potassium is in that?
23,000x0.018=414g/100 square feet.
This appears to be excessive, however I have found there to be no ill effect from it. Potassium in alfalfa is more prone to leeching than nitrogen because it is more soluble than the nitrogen, that being trapped within plant fibre.

 

[ChinaVoodoo]

An interesting side note is that if you apply some in the fall, you will be setting up an exchange program with any rabbits or hares in your neighbourhood. Take a pellet, leave a pellet.

But the aninals can be problematic come planting time, so have a plan for them, and if you can't eat them, I recommend never leaving alfalfa on the surface. Pellets are habit forming, and without them, the rabbits will eat anything else they find, and while they may not eat tobacco, they have no problem with sitting on it.

 

[ChinaVoodoo]

Alfalfa becomes more balanced between N and K in subsequent years because your effective N% goes up.
If you wanted to play it safe, you could apply
250gK/100square feet
250÷0.018= 13888g = 31lbs alfalfa per 100 square feet

You would still need another 150-(13,888x0.0065) = 60g of Nitrogen per 100square feet.

Once again, i would recommend blood meal :
60/.12= 500g/100 square feet. (about a lb)

Think about the soil texture too. The effect of 30-50lbs of alfalfa and 0-1lb of blood meal every year, vs just some chemical powder is not insignificant.

 

[deluxestogie]

My "chemical" fertilizer is a bunch of tiny rocks.

Bob

 

[ChinaVoodoo]

I'm not criticizing "chemicals". I'm merely suggesting that with green manure, you are consistently adding additional bulk, and carbon.

 

[MRM]

Another awesome response.
I do have several rabbits that visit my property, so I might need a management plan there.
I will make my way by the farmers coop in the next day or so and see if I can get set up.

Thanks for the education!!

 

[ChinaVoodoo]

Pellets are way better than cubes. Cubes take a long time to rehydrate and break up.

 

[RoperLegacyWoods]

Alfalfa becomes more balanced between N and K in subsequent years because your effective N% goes up.
If you wanted to play it safe, you could apply
250gK/100square feet
250÷0.018= 13888g = 31lbs alfalfa per 100 square feet

You would still need another 150-(13,888x0.0065) = 60g of Nitrogen per 100square feet.

Once again, i would recommend blood meal :
60/.12= 500g/100 square feet. (about a lb)

Think about the soil texture too. The effect of 30-50lbs of alfalfa and 0-1lb of blood meal every year, vs just some chemical powder is not insignificant.

What is blood meal sir? Just dipping my toes in this year…