AmaxB
Well-Known Member
Ok gotcha thank you LeftyRighty I'll do one fan for now if another is needed I can always add. But will use the larger vents as you suggested. To small is bad if to big can always close it a bit more.
Idea Curing Box
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leverhead
Well-Known Member
Put ports above and below the tobacco and hook up a vinyl tube with some water in it.
This may be too simplistic but is too much air flow over the leaf bad? As long as it's not a gale that would damage the leaf who cares? If you can set your dampers to control temp/humidity you should be golden.
Yeah, I agree with you on that - am trying to figure out a decent velocity, since pressure or cfm/lbs is a poor criteria for a DIY home curing chamber. But then you'll need enough velocity pressure to make the exhaust work.
This is getting complicated.
Also, need to be sure the air passes through the leaf, not short-circuiting around it. Not as easy as it seems. Unless you're blowing enough air that leaf is flapping in the breeze.
This is getting complicated.
Also, need to be sure the air passes through the leaf, not short-circuiting around it. Not as easy as it seems. Unless you're blowing enough air that leaf is flapping in the breeze.
As I understand it some fans are designed (form, blade curvature) to generate a fixed pressure. Big vacuum cleaning systems are a prime example. A static pressure is generated and the energy used by the motor is a function of FLOW not pressure. Would that idea be useful in this application?
Another trick might be to standardize leaf packing density and block off excess space (small loads) with a solid barrier like wood or sheet metal.
In my freezer box chamber, I'm already considering using coroplast board baffles around the edges of the hanging leaf, regardless of leaf density. maybe 3 or 4 of them along the height of the chamber.
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
I don't understand after reading through many post it seems the trend is toward automated humidity control. It seems to me that no matter the home made chamber the user will need to get to know it, in doing so knowing where to set the damper / valve / would become known. So why not manual control?
Has any one made a chamber with a automatic humidity control? If so how?
Has any one made a chamber with a automatic humidity control? If so how?
leverhead
Well-Known Member
I haven't done it, but I intend to. I still haven't figured out how I want to do it. If a wet bulb is used for a sensor, there would only be three temperature settings. Changing a thermostat manually for that shouldn't be too bad. My inclination is towards solenoid(s) and gate valves.
Yes amax,
Manual control is where I am at for the first year or first few loads. All I know about flue curing is what I have read. Hands on experience is going to tell the story in the future. Leverhead and deluxe stogie have proven that flue curing on the small scale is doable. The first load or two will be a real learning experience. For now my basic temperature control will be the stove switch which I can control the heat output of the heating element. It is infinately adjustable and should be basic enough in practice. The secondary control will be the thermostat. It will keep the temps from going too high. The way I look at it there is three temperature settings the same as leverhead suggests.
As for humidity the venting should do the job, too wet vent more, too dry vent less, way to dry, add mist. It is going to be a touchy feely thing which is going to have to be learned
Manual control is where I am at for the first year or first few loads. All I know about flue curing is what I have read. Hands on experience is going to tell the story in the future. Leverhead and deluxe stogie have proven that flue curing on the small scale is doable. The first load or two will be a real learning experience. For now my basic temperature control will be the stove switch which I can control the heat output of the heating element. It is infinately adjustable and should be basic enough in practice. The secondary control will be the thermostat. It will keep the temps from going too high. The way I look at it there is three temperature settings the same as leverhead suggests.
As for humidity the venting should do the job, too wet vent more, too dry vent less, way to dry, add mist. It is going to be a touchy feely thing which is going to have to be learned
leverhead
Well-Known Member
Be careful with liquid water! If it gets on the leaves it will leave brown spots. I agree with the touchy feely thing, nothing is set in cement yet. It may take several seasons to settle this.
it is all going to be careful
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
Yeah guys my thoughts exactly "touchy feely" I have been looking at meat chambers and these guys are using a Dehumidistat and it has me thinking that it would be nice to control the damper / valve. RH is high it opens / RH is low it closes. The only cheap ones I have seen would need to mount in the chamber and have seen nothing as to how to connect to something like a damper. Am thinking the heat and humidity could be separately controlled. Have got around to reading your whole thread DrBob is interesting and the condensing unit is a thought...
Will keep searching
I'm with you Leverhead solenoid(s) and gate valves
Will keep searching
I'm with you Leverhead solenoid(s) and gate valves
leverhead
Well-Known Member
I didn't quit worrying until the last run, by that time I was too tired to smile.
leverhead
Well-Known Member
To me it seems to be the easiest way to go. One thermostat set to heat and the other (wet bulb) set to "cool". That and it's apples and apples to published data.
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
Yes yes yes! I know little about this but am getting a grip. Found this and could work I think $46 bucks look at installation link on this page http://www.prothermostats.com/product.php?p=tjernlund_dh10&product=171079&category=1527
We are making progress..
If you wanted fan could be placed to open damper or maybe it could be connected to damper solenoid instead of the fan
leverhead
Well-Known Member
It comes up a little short at an upper limit of 80% RH, yellowing is up around 85%.
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
Found this one too the prob is nice and goes to 95% but cost a bit more still looking... http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?ref=RHCN-3&Nav=temhu06
AmaxB..... you never answered my question, and I'd like to know, since I'm planning to use PVC pipe. How did you test, and how did it fail? Don't want to go to CPVC, but will spend the $$$ if need be.
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
Sorry LeftyRighty I did not see the question when posted. I put a 1" elbow in my little oven for 1 hour at 120F was positive than increased heat to 160F and increased again to 200F. I forget just what temp but around 170F if touched it would deform. So I feel it is a poor choice taking variables into consideration I would not use it myself. The metal is cheaper but the PVC is easier and ball valves are readily available and so I was thinking of it.
But after research for automating control of RH to me it is a better choice for metal any way. I found a number of Dehumidistats / Humidistats that would do the job and control 1 or more dampers / fans / etc. with range above 85% humidity. After Leverhead pointed out 85% as a must I narrowed my search for a control with a regulating range of -0- to 95%. If considering this method you should also consider one that uses temp probes (2 min.) one for dry bulb and the other for wet bulb. I found an Altec pid that will do this as well as operate a devise/s in duct line to vent however automated control adds cost.
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I started this adventure in learning with the idea of a flue curing chamber with 2 goals in mind. Primary goal - it must work, Secondary goal - do it for $500 or less (including the chamber box) building from -0-.
I think I have it sorted out it can be done, but if using precise controls on an automated level $500 or less won't do it my finished cost will be more. I now have all the parts for my build except damper. Adding a Humidistat gives cause to locate a damper to work with it. I want to THANK ALL OF YOU HERE AT FAIR TRADE for your help and ideas without Fair Trade and this bunch of great intelligent people I would not have a clue!
I'll start a new thread for the build and tuning.
Thanks guys
Brent
The max working temp of PVC is 160ºF. Working temp of CPVC, I believe, is 212ºF.
http://www.usplastic.com/knowledgebase/article.aspx?contentkey=598
Bob
http://www.usplastic.com/knowledgebase/article.aspx?contentkey=598
Bob
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