OldDinosaurWesH
Well-Known Member
No cats allowed in my house. Just houseplants. That suitcase is about 100 years old. It belonged to a long dead relative and that is why it is still around.
Wes H.
Wes H.
Photo of my tobacco - OldDinosaur
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Gavroche
Well-Known Member
Well, I fetch somewhere else maybe to Alpine where there is very good seeds of tobacco!
Bon, je vais chercher ailleurs... peut-être chez Alpin...où il y a de très bonnes graines de tabac !
Bon, je vais chercher ailleurs... peut-être chez Alpin...où il y a de très bonnes graines de tabac !
I wonder if the smokey air has acted like partial shade to increase the height of your plants.
Bob
Bob
OldDinosaurWesH
Well-Known Member
The wind has picked up and the smoke isn't as bad. I'm sure my tobacco likes the sunshine a lot better than the haze. Unfortunately, my tobacco doesn't like the wind. But you gotta take the good with the bad. Hopefully that sunshine can make it through all the fresh deposits of particulates on the leaves. Damn that kid and his fireworks anyway. (That fact was in the newspaper.) You're supposed to burn trees in the wood stove and then put the smoke into the atmosphere!
Hope it isn't getting too violent down there in the southeast. Good luck with that.
Wes H.
Hope it isn't getting too violent down there in the southeast. Good luck with that.
Wes H.
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OldDinosaurWesH
Well-Known Member
I've been out in my garden this morning working on my Robespierre imitation. Yes my Ternopolskii 14's are pretty ripe and I have been decapitating them. The poor innocent young things are only 111 days old, only to meet their fate at the hands of me and my loppers.
One of the things that I have noticed is that these suckers have Suckers! (Pun intended) I guess it was a case of not being able to see the trees for the forest, but there are 4 and 5 foot suckers in there. This engenders a question. Is there any point in letting these suckers grow? One of them looks like it is about ready to bloom! I probably have three and maybe up to five weeks left before our first killing frost. As I decapitate, I have been cutting the main stems off, and leaving the live stem intact for a few inches above the suckers. Unless nature intervenes, there could be substantial growth left there.
As a related matter, I'm trying to be the best farmer that I can. That means hedging my bets. I am planning to decapitate all my plants sometime between now and the end of this month. My decapitation schedule is based on maturity. This is why Ternopolskii 14 is first, Burley 9 will be next, etc. etc. As the warm season wanes, I keep an eye on the weather forecast. The plan is to have only bagged seed plants (and probably some suckers) left standing before first frost. This way I can hopefully maximize my leaf, and have only a few plants left to cut down on the potentially short notice given to me by the weather service at frost time.
Comments?
Wes H.
One of the things that I have noticed is that these suckers have Suckers! (Pun intended) I guess it was a case of not being able to see the trees for the forest, but there are 4 and 5 foot suckers in there. This engenders a question. Is there any point in letting these suckers grow? One of them looks like it is about ready to bloom! I probably have three and maybe up to five weeks left before our first killing frost. As I decapitate, I have been cutting the main stems off, and leaving the live stem intact for a few inches above the suckers. Unless nature intervenes, there could be substantial growth left there.
As a related matter, I'm trying to be the best farmer that I can. That means hedging my bets. I am planning to decapitate all my plants sometime between now and the end of this month. My decapitation schedule is based on maturity. This is why Ternopolskii 14 is first, Burley 9 will be next, etc. etc. As the warm season wanes, I keep an eye on the weather forecast. The plan is to have only bagged seed plants (and probably some suckers) left standing before first frost. This way I can hopefully maximize my leaf, and have only a few plants left to cut down on the potentially short notice given to me by the weather service at frost time.
Comments?
Wes H.
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Robespierre's ultimate fate was not a happy one.
I think it is noble of you to grow enough leaf this year to supply the western half of Washington. If you need more leaf, Skychaser is in the throes of a harvesting frenzy, and I'm sure would appreciate the assistance.
I'm sure you've read my ceaseless grumpy comments about the quality of sucker leaf. But even I look covetously at some of my nicer suckers. (I never learn.) I would suggest that, if you decide to give some (or all) of your suckers rein, keep the harvested result separate from your main leaf, so you will have the opportunity to judge whether or not it has been worthwhile to expend the additional effort to manage them, cure them, kiln them and store them.
Bob
I think it is noble of you to grow enough leaf this year to supply the western half of Washington. If you need more leaf, Skychaser is in the throes of a harvesting frenzy, and I'm sure would appreciate the assistance.
I'm sure you've read my ceaseless grumpy comments about the quality of sucker leaf. But even I look covetously at some of my nicer suckers. (I never learn.) I would suggest that, if you decide to give some (or all) of your suckers rein, keep the harvested result separate from your main leaf, so you will have the opportunity to judge whether or not it has been worthwhile to expend the additional effort to manage them, cure them, kiln them and store them.
Bob
Gavroche
Well-Known Member
[QUOTE = deluxestogie; 139731]
Je suis sûr que vous avez lu mes incessants commentaires grincheux sur la qualité de la feuille de ventouse. Mais même si j'ai l'air généreusement de certains de mes meilleurs reyeux. (Je n'apprends jamais.) Je dirais que, si vous décidez de donner à certains (ou à tous) vos sourcils réticents, gardez le résultat récolté séparé de votre feuille principale, de sorte que vous aurez l'opportunité de juger si oui ou non il vaut la peine de dépenser les efforts supplémentaires pour les gérer, les guérir, les fourrer et les stocker.
Bob [/ QUOTE]
I killed all the sucker leaf... if I had known! Lol
J'ai tué toutes les ventouses... si j'avais su ! lol
Je suis sûr que vous avez lu mes incessants commentaires grincheux sur la qualité de la feuille de ventouse. Mais même si j'ai l'air généreusement de certains de mes meilleurs reyeux. (Je n'apprends jamais.) Je dirais que, si vous décidez de donner à certains (ou à tous) vos sourcils réticents, gardez le résultat récolté séparé de votre feuille principale, de sorte que vous aurez l'opportunité de juger si oui ou non il vaut la peine de dépenser les efforts supplémentaires pour les gérer, les guérir, les fourrer et les stocker.
Bob [/ QUOTE]
I killed all the sucker leaf... if I had known! Lol
J'ai tué toutes les ventouses... si j'avais su ! lol
"...my ceaseless grumpy comments..."
So, that is where Dr. Seuss found a name for "the Grinch", in How the Grinch Stole Christmas!. I was unfamiliar with the word.
Bob
Youn
Well-Known Member
It seems that the word come from "grincer" (to grind) ans specially from the expression "grincer des dents" (grind your teeth, gnash your teeth).
OldDinosaurWesH
Well-Known Member
I was out there checking, and yes, some of those suckers are getting ready to bloom.
This year, I am harvesting about four times the amount that I harvested last year. I have planted about four times as many as I planted last year. The nice thing about cured leaf is that it continues to age nicely if stored properly. Like I said in my previous post, I'm just trying to be a good farmer. Micro farmer, but farmer nonetheless. Hopefully, my yields will be better than last year too. A little experience helps a lot.
So far so good, but just like farmers everywhere, you never know what mother nature is going to throw at you. Jut ask those guys in Florida, if you can reach them...I think maybe their phone lines are down right now...
Oh, and yes, isn't part of the reason to grow your own is to not have to give copious amounts of money to big tobacco and bigger government?
Wes H.
This year, I am harvesting about four times the amount that I harvested last year. I have planted about four times as many as I planted last year. The nice thing about cured leaf is that it continues to age nicely if stored properly. Like I said in my previous post, I'm just trying to be a good farmer. Micro farmer, but farmer nonetheless. Hopefully, my yields will be better than last year too. A little experience helps a lot.
So far so good, but just like farmers everywhere, you never know what mother nature is going to throw at you. Jut ask those guys in Florida, if you can reach them...I think maybe their phone lines are down right now...
Oh, and yes, isn't part of the reason to grow your own is to not have to give copious amounts of money to big tobacco and bigger government?
Wes H.
Gavroche
Well-Known Member
[QUOTE = deluxestogie; 139739] "... mes commentaires grincheux sans cesse ..."
Alors, c'est là que Dr. Seuss a trouvé un nom pour " The Grinch", dans How the Grinch Stole Christmas! . Je ne connaissais pas le mot.
Bob [/ QUOTE]
Remain "a grincheux" thanks to you, I learn(teach) every day!
restez "grincheux"... grâce à vous, j'apprends chaque jour !
Alors, c'est là que Dr. Seuss a trouvé un nom pour " The Grinch", dans How the Grinch Stole Christmas! . Je ne connaissais pas le mot.
Bob [/ QUOTE]
Remain "a grincheux" thanks to you, I learn(teach) every day!
restez "grincheux"... grâce à vous, j'apprends chaque jour !
OldDinosaurWesH
Well-Known Member
My first wave of decapitations is now complete. That was after I spent some time stringing wire from the floor joists in the basement to hang the severed heads on. Burley 9, look out! you're next. I only have 12 Burley 9's, so that won't take long. The earwigs have pretty well chewed one my Burley 9's to bits, so there will be little if anything to hang there. Maybe that one individual will end up in the trash. Pesky bugs!
Any one know what is the appropriate amount of time to leave bagged-for-seed heads on the plant? I was told that the heads need 30 days to successfully form seed. I have also noted in the past, that seed heads will continue to produce new flowers for weeks. Long after the first head(s) has matured. I've never (intentionally) tried to make seed before, so this is a new experience for me.
As I've said in previous posts, I want to have everything cut down and hung before the end of the month. With the possible exception of bagged seed plants. Those would be the last to go. There aren't that many bagged plants, so if the weather man gives short notice of frost, I can go out there with my loppers and harvest them in a couple of hours.
I have also been told that you should let seed heads dry for 30 days, or 'till they are crispy dry, before trying to clean the seeds out of the pods. Does that sound right?
Wes H.
Any one know what is the appropriate amount of time to leave bagged-for-seed heads on the plant? I was told that the heads need 30 days to successfully form seed. I have also noted in the past, that seed heads will continue to produce new flowers for weeks. Long after the first head(s) has matured. I've never (intentionally) tried to make seed before, so this is a new experience for me.
As I've said in previous posts, I want to have everything cut down and hung before the end of the month. With the possible exception of bagged seed plants. Those would be the last to go. There aren't that many bagged plants, so if the weather man gives short notice of frost, I can go out there with my loppers and harvest them in a couple of hours.
I have also been told that you should let seed heads dry for 30 days, or 'till they are crispy dry, before trying to clean the seeds out of the pods. Does that sound right?
Wes H.
One seed pod will give you enough seed to plant several acres (~7000 seeds), so once you have a few nicely browned ones, you know that you can safely cut the seed head. As for subsequent drying, the drier the better. You can begin after a month or so, but I usually wait until late in the year. SmokesAhoy is doing the official trials of seed harvest timing--results not yet in.
Bob
Bob
OldDinosaurWesH
Well-Known Member
When the winter heating season starts up, the humidity inside drops significantly. All I have to do is bring the seed pods upstairs into the heated areas and they would dry out fairly quickly. (30 days or so) Will the seeds fall out of the pods if said pods are inverted or otherwise in an indisposed position? I was of the understanding that modern tobacco varieties held on to their seeds pretty well. I have only done this once, and didn't have any trouble having seeds scatter after pod drying. Conversely, my ornamental tobaccos scatter their seeds all over the place when they are still on the plant. But they are a different species, Nicotiana Alata.
Wes H.
I really dislike the very cold weather like we had last year. Weeks on end at or below Zero every day. Everything gets all dried out, including my skin and sinuses. Fortunately, very cold weather is the exception not the rule around here. Most years we got some short lived snow and mostly above freezing in the daytime & below freezing at night. They can have all the snow they want up at the ski area (elevation 4,200 to 5,200 feet & a 20 mile drive). Just keep it up there!
Wes H.
I really dislike the very cold weather like we had last year. Weeks on end at or below Zero every day. Everything gets all dried out, including my skin and sinuses. Fortunately, very cold weather is the exception not the rule around here. Most years we got some short lived snow and mostly above freezing in the daytime & below freezing at night. They can have all the snow they want up at the ski area (elevation 4,200 to 5,200 feet & a 20 mile drive). Just keep it up there!
You are generally correct about N. tabacum seed. It usually stays put, unless it doesn't. My seed heads hang inverted inside their Agribon AG-15 bag, which will trap any wayward seed. The only time that was important was when earwigs got into a couple of bags and ate most of the seed. The seed that had spilled to the bottom of the bag saved the day. (Earwigs are messy eaters.)
About the dry skin, I have tried, over the past decades, every product on the market for helping dry hands. I even tried 5% lactic acid cream (mixed up for me by a pharmacist), which works brilliantly--except it stings like the dickens if your hands are already cracked. There is a single product that has no peer.
100% pure shea butter: https://store.underwoodgardens.com/Original-100-Shea-Butter-4-oz/productinfo/T1023/ ~$17 plus shipping for a 4 oz. jar, which lasts me about 1 year.
It is the oil extracted from the African shea nut. Like coconut oil, it is solid at room temp. It melts at skin temp. It is not a moisturizer, but a restorer. After bathing or hand washing and drying, apply a tiny amount of shea butter, and allow it to melt. Then rub it in.
Most products that advertise shea butter as an ingredient have only a few % of shea butter, plus a few dozen other, useless and sometimes detrimental ingredients. The 100% shea butter works, and is worth every penny. [It takes 20 years for the nut tree to begin to produce nuts, and they are cutting down those trees faster than they are being replaced. There are no plantations of them, only the dwindling stands of wild trees. So now is a good time.]
Bob
About the dry skin, I have tried, over the past decades, every product on the market for helping dry hands. I even tried 5% lactic acid cream (mixed up for me by a pharmacist), which works brilliantly--except it stings like the dickens if your hands are already cracked. There is a single product that has no peer.
100% pure shea butter: https://store.underwoodgardens.com/Original-100-Shea-Butter-4-oz/productinfo/T1023/ ~$17 plus shipping for a 4 oz. jar, which lasts me about 1 year.
It is the oil extracted from the African shea nut. Like coconut oil, it is solid at room temp. It melts at skin temp. It is not a moisturizer, but a restorer. After bathing or hand washing and drying, apply a tiny amount of shea butter, and allow it to melt. Then rub it in.
Most products that advertise shea butter as an ingredient have only a few % of shea butter, plus a few dozen other, useless and sometimes detrimental ingredients. The 100% shea butter works, and is worth every penny. [It takes 20 years for the nut tree to begin to produce nuts, and they are cutting down those trees faster than they are being replaced. There are no plantations of them, only the dwindling stands of wild trees. So now is a good time.]
Bob
OldDinosaurWesH
Well-Known Member
Yes, those earwigs are very pesky critters. They like to cut out chunks of leaf and do I don't know what with them. The upper most leaves of one of my Burley 9's was hit particularly hard. And they seem to be pretty indiscriminate eaters. Multi-fuel critters they are.
Thanks Bob.
Wes H.
Thanks Bob.
Wes H.
OldDinosaurWesH
Well-Known Member
I'm going to move my proofer / kiln today. Hopefully I can have it up and running soon. I have to do a little electrical wiring first.
I've been decapitating my tobacco plants and hanging them in my basement for three days now. I'll post a photo of my "clear cut" as I get further along on my project. Unfortunately, work gets in the way and slows my progress. Work! isn't that one of those naughty four letter words?
Wes H.
I've been decapitating my tobacco plants and hanging them in my basement for three days now. I'll post a photo of my "clear cut" as I get further along on my project. Unfortunately, work gets in the way and slows my progress. Work! isn't that one of those naughty four letter words?
Wes H.
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Gavroche
Well-Known Member
Trepalium
Yikes! I had to look that one up.
"Latin word: trepalium, meaning “instrument of torture.” The closest English word is probably toil, though travail means you're not just exerting monumental effort but suffering as you do so."
If you want to reduce an expression to a four letter word, you've just got to give up Latin, and go with Anglo-Saxon.
Bob
"Latin word: trepalium, meaning “instrument of torture.” The closest English word is probably toil, though travail means you're not just exerting monumental effort but suffering as you do so."
If you want to reduce an expression to a four letter word, you've just got to give up Latin, and go with Anglo-Saxon.
Bob
OldDinosaurWesH
Well-Known Member
Photos of my Proofer / Kiln.
Photo 1, oblique view of the exterior of my 1970's era "Proofer Cabinet." It is all aluminum, and the over all exterior dimensions are 31"x 21"x 70".
Photo 2, cabinet with the door open showing interior. Corrugations on the sides are made to hold a full sheet 18" x 24" bread pan.
Photo 3, showing column on back wall of interior. Column is mated to the modular heat / humidity unit and is intended to distribute warm air evenly throughout the cabinet. There are a series of openings that correspond with the corrugations in order that each pan is getting exposed to the warm air.
Photo 4, shows cabinet with one bread pan installed. Cabinet can hold a whole bunch of pans. I'm not sure how many.
Photo 5, I always keep one pan at the bottom to catch any falling debris so that said debis doesn't get into the heater / air circulation unit & "gum up the works." You can see leftover toasty tobacco bits from last year. Bottom red colored panel is actually a modular unit that fills the full depth of the cabinet, and contains all the working parts. You can remove the unit easily and perform repairs when necessary. I have spare parts, just in case it dies on me mid-kiln.
All in all a pretty slick unit. It is big enough that you can kiln quite a bit of tobacco at one time. And you can control temperature with a thermostat to a fair degree of accuracy. I run the thermostat at about 7 out of a possible 10. That setting will maintain a temp of 125 - 130 degrees. I'm not sure how hot it will get if you maxed it out, I've never tried.
As is the case with everything in life, this machine has its limitations. It isn't as well sealed as I would like it to be. As a consequence, you have to refill the water supply regularly. And it also uses a lot of electricity.
I originally bought it used, and would run it without the water to dry Chili Peppers. A giant food dehydrator of sorts. I could dry 50 - 60#'s of Chilis in 24 hours or less. (I was doing this commercially at the time.)
Best thing of all, it's paid for and doesn't owe me a dime!
Wes H.
Photo 1, oblique view of the exterior of my 1970's era "Proofer Cabinet." It is all aluminum, and the over all exterior dimensions are 31"x 21"x 70".
Photo 2, cabinet with the door open showing interior. Corrugations on the sides are made to hold a full sheet 18" x 24" bread pan.
Photo 3, showing column on back wall of interior. Column is mated to the modular heat / humidity unit and is intended to distribute warm air evenly throughout the cabinet. There are a series of openings that correspond with the corrugations in order that each pan is getting exposed to the warm air.
Photo 4, shows cabinet with one bread pan installed. Cabinet can hold a whole bunch of pans. I'm not sure how many.
Photo 5, I always keep one pan at the bottom to catch any falling debris so that said debis doesn't get into the heater / air circulation unit & "gum up the works." You can see leftover toasty tobacco bits from last year. Bottom red colored panel is actually a modular unit that fills the full depth of the cabinet, and contains all the working parts. You can remove the unit easily and perform repairs when necessary. I have spare parts, just in case it dies on me mid-kiln.
All in all a pretty slick unit. It is big enough that you can kiln quite a bit of tobacco at one time. And you can control temperature with a thermostat to a fair degree of accuracy. I run the thermostat at about 7 out of a possible 10. That setting will maintain a temp of 125 - 130 degrees. I'm not sure how hot it will get if you maxed it out, I've never tried.
As is the case with everything in life, this machine has its limitations. It isn't as well sealed as I would like it to be. As a consequence, you have to refill the water supply regularly. And it also uses a lot of electricity.
I originally bought it used, and would run it without the water to dry Chili Peppers. A giant food dehydrator of sorts. I could dry 50 - 60#'s of Chilis in 24 hours or less. (I was doing this commercially at the time.)
Best thing of all, it's paid for and doesn't owe me a dime!
Wes H.
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