DGBAMA
Well-Known Member
I have been stopping my stem drying at 148-150. Hope to not kill off the lower aging enzymes so itcan continue to age at anear normal rate and should take kilning better after harvest is done.I
Possible kiln idea
- Thread starter Fisherman
- Start date
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AmaxB
Well-Known Member
I go to 155F
Fisherman
Well-Known Member
Great find I think:
I contacted Auber Instruments about converting their 30 stage Soak and Ramp Temp controller into a ramping humidity controller and got the following reply:
Hi,
Thanks for contacting us. Please visit auberins.com and order SYL-2342P
auberins.com :
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=5
OR
SYL-2372P:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=264
(depending
on your load. If it is a heater, SYL-2342P is better; if it is a inductive
load, SYL-2372P is better)
*Leave us a note* during check out stating that you need modification for
humidity control. We can then send you an invoice of $43.93 for the price
difference. You can pay it directly with credit card or paypal account.
To find the shipping cost,
1) Add the item(s) you need to order into the shopping cart.
2) At the Shopping Cart page, click the "estimate shipping" button.
3) At the Estimate Shipping page, select the country that the order is
going to, enter the postal code, then, click "update" button.
4) You will get a list of shipping cost for different service by USPS and
FedEx.
BTW, the controller does not have computer interface.
Thanks,
Mengwei
Auber Instruments
www.auberins.com
770-569-8420
This would allow you to ramp your humidity and temp programs simultaneously... I am thinking also that this could be done with one PID ... The Auber people are great for helping out also.
It seems we are gravatating towards manual control of curing but for those of us that are on the road a lot. we still need some sort of baby sitter
I contacted Auber Instruments about converting their 30 stage Soak and Ramp Temp controller into a ramping humidity controller and got the following reply:
Hi,
Thanks for contacting us. Please visit auberins.com and order SYL-2342P
auberins.com :
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=5
OR
SYL-2372P:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=264
(depending
on your load. If it is a heater, SYL-2342P is better; if it is a inductive
load, SYL-2372P is better)
*Leave us a note* during check out stating that you need modification for
humidity control. We can then send you an invoice of $43.93 for the price
difference. You can pay it directly with credit card or paypal account.
To find the shipping cost,
1) Add the item(s) you need to order into the shopping cart.
2) At the Shopping Cart page, click the "estimate shipping" button.
3) At the Estimate Shipping page, select the country that the order is
going to, enter the postal code, then, click "update" button.
4) You will get a list of shipping cost for different service by USPS and
FedEx.
BTW, the controller does not have computer interface.
Thanks,
Mengwei
Auber Instruments
www.auberins.com
770-569-8420
This would allow you to ramp your humidity and temp programs simultaneously... I am thinking also that this could be done with one PID ... The Auber people are great for helping out also.
It seems we are gravatating towards manual control of curing but for those of us that are on the road a lot. we still need some sort of baby sitter
You're really on the ball. I hope you get all this worked out in time for my build.
Fisherman
Well-Known Member
Funny how when you need information in a really bad way. the web goes down
Quote from Amax:
I'm thinking we are stuck thinking in terms of phases. Instead should be going by the leaf to a greater degree. If at 48 hrs there are still leaves with heavy green but going yellow those leaves need more heat to yellow. While those that have gone yellow need to dry out more to minimise browning so more heat is needed here to. I feel advancing the heat here is needed while not going so high as to set green color.
I needed that info and got it in the nick of time.
I had 48 hours on this load at 100 deg F basically and wanted to proceed. I had noticed that the last load did have some green dissappear when ramping to wilt stage.
The back rows are showing some browning.
NOTE: I did not dare open the door at the early stage of yellowing as the bottom of my chamber was about 3 deg higher than the top where controls are getting information from and did not want to go over the 105 deg point where leaf will set and wont yellow any longer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
After starting into wilt stage , is possible for me to open door and see what is going on
Quote from Amax:
I'm thinking we are stuck thinking in terms of phases. Instead should be going by the leaf to a greater degree. If at 48 hrs there are still leaves with heavy green but going yellow those leaves need more heat to yellow. While those that have gone yellow need to dry out more to minimise browning so more heat is needed here to. I feel advancing the heat here is needed while not going so high as to set green color.
I needed that info and got it in the nick of time.
I had 48 hours on this load at 100 deg F basically and wanted to proceed. I had noticed that the last load did have some green dissappear when ramping to wilt stage.
The back rows are showing some browning.
NOTE: I did not dare open the door at the early stage of yellowing as the bottom of my chamber was about 3 deg higher than the top where controls are getting information from and did not want to go over the 105 deg point where leaf will set and wont yellow any longer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
After starting into wilt stage , is possible for me to open door and see what is going on
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
Try not venting / controlling humidity until the wilt around 115F
I had good results sweating is good for yellowing. If to long though you can get black type rot.
Around 60 hours you should see 98% of leaves Yellowed well -Watch your dry / wet bulbs.....
As seen in your picture is a good way to load.
I like the wire----I'll post photos later of how I am loading this time. I take wire shelving that has been cut to fit on the supports for my chamber.
Hang it from the ceiling at a comfortable height, than string my leaves on the bottom side. When full I remove the shelf from ceiling supports and
set it on the floor. Than do another shelf, until all the shelves are done. After unloading the chamber I can than slide the pre-loaded shelves in
and start the next run. In this way the leaf wilts a little before going into the chamber and I reduce down time.
I had good results sweating is good for yellowing. If to long though you can get black type rot.
Around 60 hours you should see 98% of leaves Yellowed well -Watch your dry / wet bulbs.....
As seen in your picture is a good way to load.
I like the wire----I'll post photos later of how I am loading this time. I take wire shelving that has been cut to fit on the supports for my chamber.
Hang it from the ceiling at a comfortable height, than string my leaves on the bottom side. When full I remove the shelf from ceiling supports and
set it on the floor. Than do another shelf, until all the shelves are done. After unloading the chamber I can than slide the pre-loaded shelves in
and start the next run. In this way the leaf wilts a little before going into the chamber and I reduce down time.
Fisherman
Well-Known Member
I want to find some sort of flat wire/metal that I can set up and "stab" leaf midrib on and then put in my racks. Most of my leaf is pretty small midribs also.
To do this the wire/metal has to be stiff enuff to withstand sagging and also have the one end small enuff to go thru my smaller midribs.
I made a small basket out of 2x4 wire to hold some small top leafs and it doesnt look like it has worked to well but will work with it as it sure was easy to load compared to stabbing all the lil leaves The leaves fell after they were in the chamber a few hours. Should have put a rod in middle to help prevent sag of the leaves not the rack.
Made it 4 x 36 x 8 deep and sorta crunched it to fit leaves.
To do this the wire/metal has to be stiff enuff to withstand sagging and also have the one end small enuff to go thru my smaller midribs.
I made a small basket out of 2x4 wire to hold some small top leafs and it doesnt look like it has worked to well but will work with it as it sure was easy to load compared to stabbing all the lil leaves
The leaves fell after they were in the chamber a few hours. Should have put a rod in middle to help prevent sag of the leaves not the rack. Made it 4 x 36 x 8 deep and sorta crunched it to fit leaves.
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