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Winter tunnel tobacco SA: 2021

Arno de Wet

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I haven't been blogging lately. Over the past 8 weeks I spent valuable time germinating seeds, re-planting seedlings, fumigating potting mix, trimming seedlings, cleaning old pots and finally giving 86 plants the opportunity to produce leaves. I have two varieties potted in the tunnel, namely Corojo99 & Java Bezuki.
I got hold of adequate locally produced soluble fertilizer and only fertigate through the tunnel's irrigation system. I also procured a Hanna EC meter. Still learning to appreciate the readings (temp, EC, pH) after adding fertilizer to the tank. Winter is around the corner - interesting times ahead. I have attached a few pics. Input from the guru's will be appreciated. Thank you.
 

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Oldfella

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I haven't been blogging lately. Over the past 8 weeks I spent valuable time germinating seeds, re-planting seedlings, fumigating potting mix, trimming seedlings, cleaning old pots and finally giving 86 plants the opportunity to produce leaves. I have two varieties potted in the tunnel, namely Corojo99 & Java Bezuki.
I got hold of adequate locally produced soluble fertilizer and only fertigate through the tunnel's irrigation system. I also procured a Hanna EC meter. Still learning to appreciate the readings (temp, EC, pH) after adding fertilizer to the tank. Winter is around the corner - interesting times ahead. I have attached a few pics. Input from the guru's will be appreciated. Thank you.
Looking good, can't wait to see how they grow. All the best with your grow and keep up the good work with your pictures.
cheers Oldfella
 

Arno de Wet

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2 weeks in the pots and growing strong. Our maximum day temperature averages around 27 degrees C and min around 16 degrees C. The tunnel is obviously a bit hotter. With the fans and Netafim misters I can control the inside temperature to stay around 28 degrees C during the day.
 

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SmokingCrow

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Mar 20, 2021
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Wilds of Scotland
2 weeks in the pots and growing strong. Our maximum day temperature averages around 27 degrees C and min around 16 degrees C. The tunnel is obviously a bit hotter. With the fans and Netafim misters I can control the inside temperature to stay around 28 degrees C during the day.
Today's temperature in Scotland on a blue sky sunny day was 10C with frost in the morning and they are forecasting snow next week. Eish! I'm about to build a poly tunnel so I've been admiring your build. (y):cool:
 

Arno de Wet

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Thank you SmokingCrow. The tunnel took me 2 weeks to build. With winter coming I am looking for a suitable and economical heat source to install. I will probably end up going the solar panel route. Haven't made up my mind. Maybe you have some ideas.
 

SmokingCrow

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Thank you SmokingCrow. The tunnel took me 2 weeks to build. With winter coming I am looking for a suitable and economical heat source to install. I will probably end up going the solar panel route. Haven't made up my mind. Maybe you have some ideas.
There are loads of diy solar 'furnaces' online and it seems one of the better/easier designs is to make a box, like a drawer. The bottom and sides of the drawer are wood but insulated with polystyrene or similar and the entire inside is painted matt black. Make a narrow frame that fits inside the drawer and attach some fine metal netting (screen door/mozi netting) onto the frame and paint it black. Fix the frame so it sits parallel bottom of the drawer dividing the depth in half. Then glaze the drawer with glass, double glazing if someone is chucking out a window/door. If you've got a piece of glass, make the system fit that glass, rather than cut the glass and lose some collecting area. Drill a large hole(s) in one of the narrow sides, This will be the 'top' of the solar collector. The hot air will come out of the hole(s) and a pipe(s) is fed into your poly tunnel. On the other end, intake holes are drilled, and the ambient cool air is drawn in, and it is heated, hot air rises and it naturally flows into the poly tunnel.
There are similar designs using aluminium cans, drilled, stacked glued and painted black, but it's a hellova schlep compared to using a staple gun and some fine wire mesh and on test I saw, the differences were minimal. (found it) Of course the drawer would have to be aligned to face north at an angle but you can make adjustments and check the output temperatures.


An easy way to keep the heat at night is to use drums filled with water, they get hot during the day and act like a heater when the sun goes down - google thermal mass, there may be better options but water is quick and easy. Another thing is that you can also use it for watering plants so they don't have temperature shock when cold water comes out of the hosepipe. You can fill the tanks with water in the morning and it's going to be nice and warm at night. I'm going to use some old jerry cans, I pulled out of a skip. I've got about 10 that I'll paint black to help absorb the heat.
 

Arno de Wet

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The Java Bezuki and Corojo99 in my hothouse is just booming. My first wrappers ever with the second harvest coming up. 21 March the plants were transfered into the large 25l pots. Today, 14 April, 24 days later they look as healthy as can be. Hope they don't go through the roof...:oops:
 

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Arno de Wet

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Bud nipping took place during the last week and plants are looking super healthy. No white flies, no pests...truly blessed
 

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Arno de Wet

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I need some advice please. On the first leave harvest, one mainly removes the volado section of the plant, then when ready the seco, then the viso and lastly the ligero? I would then believe that it is vital to keep the leaves from the different sections separately
 

deluxestogie

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The plants look good, though not quite ready to begin harvest (judged by looking at your photos). Wait maybe another week. Just work your way up the stem, from bottom to top, for harvesting individual leaves. If the leaf tip is showing even a tiny bit of yellowing, then it is mature. The top leaf may show only thickening and increasing rugosity (corrugations).

As for keeping them separate, I think that it is educational and helpful to do that for two or three seasons. After that, you will be able to easily recognize the priming level of a cured and finished leaf. [For commercial enterprises, leaf is baled and sold by priming level, so they must be kept separate.]

Bob
 

Arno de Wet

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Jun 15, 2020
Messages
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Points
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Location
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The plants look good, though not quite ready to begin harvest (judged by looking at your photos). Wait maybe another week. Just work your way up the stem, from bottom to top, for harvesting individual leaves. If the leaf tip is showing even a tiny bit of yellowing, then it is mature. The top leaf may show only thickening and increasing rugosity (corrugations).

As for keeping them separate, I think that it is educational and helpful to do that for two or three seasons. After that, you will be able to easily recognize the priming level of a cured and finished leaf. [For commercial enterprises, leaf is baled and sold by priming level, so they must be kept separate.]

Bob
Thank you, Bob
 
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