Boboro
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Only if you gonna saute em.
AmaxB ground prep an Grow 2013
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Boboro
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The way things are goin in 5 years them albe prime rib.
AmaxB
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Might make em fall off the leaf. If in a Vodka bottle that would be Vodkilla 200 Proof
those wormies got a hang over
AmaxB
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The rain did not come a good deal, Sunshine this morning the Wormies will get their fill and I'll cut my grass.
AmaxB
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WhooHa Samsun PHYB 1 & Samsun PHYB 2 have started to show sign of coming to bloom after 4 weeks need to go check info on these.
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
No info on mature time so I'll say it begins at 4 weeks now will see how long to topping and mature.
It's Pedigree Samsun (PHYB-1)
Fused cells of N. tabacum cv. Turkish Samsun with cells of Petunia hybrida cv. Comanche
A link to information
http://www.ars-grin.gov/cgi-bin/npgs/acc/display.pl?1407223
A beautiful plant have not needed to sucker all though there are some teennie tiny ones but they don't seem to grow out much.
Current height is average 30" to 33"
Current leaf length average med stalk 12" to 13"
It's Pedigree Samsun (PHYB-1)
Fused cells of N. tabacum cv. Turkish Samsun with cells of Petunia hybrida cv. Comanche
A link to information
http://www.ars-grin.gov/cgi-bin/npgs/acc/display.pl?1407223
A beautiful plant have not needed to sucker all though there are some teennie tiny ones but they don't seem to grow out much.
Current height is average 30" to 33"
Current leaf length average med stalk 12" to 13"
From the GRIN database: Definition: DAYS TO MATURITY (TRANSPLANT TO 50% PLANTS 1 FLOWER).
AmaxB
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Webby
Well-Known Member
From the day they are planted out till the day that 50% of the crop has one flower or more each.
Where Knucks found it I dont know but Ive read a few gardenin mags an books so recognize the format.
Your patch is lookin f'n graet bro.
Where Knucks found it I dont know but Ive read a few gardenin mags an books so recognize the format.
Your patch is lookin f'n graet bro.
Using your Samsun link for example, there were no Observations so Days to Maturity was not provided as you stated. On the links that have Observations, the Days to Maturity will be shown. If you click on "maturity" or any of the links on the left side column, Definitions are given.
When you click on Observations, when that link is present, it will show the class (flue, binder, burley, oriental,etc.) Flower color (white, pink) Maturity (showing a number of days) and other info including height, leaf shape, etc. Click on Maturity and it will define how they arrive at the numbers given. In the case of maturity, they use the standard time from transplant to 50% of the plants having at least one flower to determine their days to maturity number. Be aware that in Stogie's experience, these numbers can be off by quite a bit due to other variables, but I think it's ok to use as a general guideline in determining if it has a long or short season. Northern growers may benefit by choosing plants with shorter Days to Maturity, thus a shorter grow season.
When you click on Observations, when that link is present, it will show the class (flue, binder, burley, oriental,etc.) Flower color (white, pink) Maturity (showing a number of days) and other info including height, leaf shape, etc. Click on Maturity and it will define how they arrive at the numbers given. In the case of maturity, they use the standard time from transplant to 50% of the plants having at least one flower to determine their days to maturity number. Be aware that in Stogie's experience, these numbers can be off by quite a bit due to other variables, but I think it's ok to use as a general guideline in determining if it has a long or short season. Northern growers may benefit by choosing plants with shorter Days to Maturity, thus a shorter grow season.
Also, keep in mind that "days to maturity" is referring to the maturation of the plant variety, and not what we consider leaf maturation.
Leaf maturity is the metabolic high point of the individual leaf's green existence. After that, senescence begins--chloroplasts transition from making chlorophyll and pumping energy into the plant to converting the chlorophyll to other compounds, causing the leaf to begin yellowing. We call a fully yellowing leaf "ripe."
As for the "days to maturity" being "off" in the GRIN data, I would be more inclined to say that I find no correlation between "days to maturity" and reality.
Bob
Leaf maturity is the metabolic high point of the individual leaf's green existence. After that, senescence begins--chloroplasts transition from making chlorophyll and pumping energy into the plant to converting the chlorophyll to other compounds, causing the leaf to begin yellowing. We call a fully yellowing leaf "ripe."
As for the "days to maturity" being "off" in the GRIN data, I would be more inclined to say that I find no correlation between "days to maturity" and reality.
Bob
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
I want to say thank you to Webby, Kuckles, & Deluxe for explaining post #407.
I stand corrected on my comment in post #406 and now understand how to arrive at days to maturity. (My education continues)
Thanks Guys
A few of the varieties I am growing have little to no background information.
The Patch - Garden is looking really good my signs donot look so big any more.
I have hope that of what I am growing they reach the correct height etc.
On the Samsun (PHYB-1 & PHYB-2) there is not much difference between them with exception given to size the PHYB-2 is a little bigger.
Aphids seem to like them but other pest have not really bothered them.
The Horn Worms seemed to like the A-N-56, Stolak 17 and Big Gold the best.
Pest are under control had some damage by the Horn Worms but think I caught them early or it would be much more than it is, they can eat.
There is a certain work when growing Tobacco but the joy in seeing it grow coupled with the anticipation of smoking some more than pays for the labor.
Will post more photos soon...
Need to get bags for seed.
I stand corrected on my comment in post #406 and now understand how to arrive at days to maturity. (My education continues)
Thanks Guys
A few of the varieties I am growing have little to no background information.
The Patch - Garden is looking really good my signs donot look so big any more.
I have hope that of what I am growing they reach the correct height etc.
On the Samsun (PHYB-1 & PHYB-2) there is not much difference between them with exception given to size the PHYB-2 is a little bigger.
Aphids seem to like them but other pest have not really bothered them.
The Horn Worms seemed to like the A-N-56, Stolak 17 and Big Gold the best.
Pest are under control had some damage by the Horn Worms but think I caught them early or it would be much more than it is, they can eat.
There is a certain work when growing Tobacco but the joy in seeing it grow coupled with the anticipation of smoking some more than pays for the labor.
Will post more photos soon...
Need to get bags for seed.
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
I have a question for you fellas, What would be the right time to top? I have been searching the forum and have yet to find an answer.
I see buds beginning to appear how will I know the right time to snap them off and would I break above or below the 3 leaves surrounding them?
Thanks for any help I am lost and maybe you guys can help me find my way.
I made a video this morning and it is uploading when done I'll post it. is in 2 parts
I see buds beginning to appear how will I know the right time to snap them off and would I break above or below the 3 leaves surrounding them?
Thanks for any help I am lost and maybe you guys can help me find my way.
I made a video this morning and it is uploading when done I'll post it. is in 2 parts
DGBAMA
Well-Known Member
Can't wait for a veteran answer on this. I was planning on waiting for the budhead to emerge/grow away from its surrounding leaves; guessing about a week after it becomes visible.
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
I have a question for you fellas, What would be the right time to top? I have been searching the forum and have yet to find an answer.
I see buds beginning to appear how will I know the right time to snap them off and would I break above or below the 3 leaves surrounding them?
Thanks for any help I am lost and maybe you guys can help me find my way.
I see buds beginning to appear how will I know the right time to snap them off and would I break above or below the 3 leaves surrounding them?
Thanks for any help I am lost and maybe you guys can help me find my way.
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
Patch at SunSet
.
.
DonH
Well-Known Member
Last year I did it wrong and topped them at the stage yours are now, when the buds first appeared. I've since read that you're supposed to wait a while, I think until some of the flowers open. Someone who knows more will chime in on the optimal time.
workhorse_01
Well-Known Member
Not until all the buds have separated. A few will open first, but that's ok. My pop caught me after a row last year, he said you have to let the plant gain all the height it can then top it and the leaves will begin to swell. He said he was taught that topping to early will cause the plant to stunt, then sucker and sucker and sucker till the day you pull it up.
DGBAMA
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Looking really good. A couple weeks ago I thought you were leaving a lot of wasted space between rows. lol.
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
Is exactly why I'm asking I made a bunch of mistakes early (never grew much of anything) on and everything is going good now really don't want to screw it up
thanks for the input. Thank You good buddy I neeeeded that info! Read today that a norm to first prime is about 2 -3 weeks (could be less or more) and seeing the buds to topping a bout a week if correct I can kiln a batch before flipping into flue curing mode
Ah-Ha I been reading all the good stuff here and been trying to follow it. All most went 3' between rows and 18" apart than changed back to 4' & 24" glad I did there not done growing yet. The Black Sea Samsun is not as tall but is taking as much space as the others. The Samsung PHYB types could have been closer but little extra room won't hurt...
Got some decent video (a Tour) coming as soon as the upload completes (big file)
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