Oldfella
Well-Known Member
Nice looking plants.
Oldfella
Oldfella
Bramleyjordan Grow Log 2021
- Thread starter Bramleyjordan
- Start date
- Status
Bramleyjordan
Well-Known Member
Allow them to color-cure, before fully drying out.
Bob
Bob
Bramleyjordan
Well-Known Member
When you say color-cure do you mean go to yellow then dry? Like in the pic?
Bramleyjordan
Well-Known Member
Also, can I let them full colour cure on the plant? When I did my indoor grow I cut them down when green and kept them in controlled environment to go yellow/brown then dried to low case before bagging then kilning.
Also one more, the leaves are covered in insects like little flys stuck when the leaves are sticky, do I wash these with water before chopping or do it once colorcured?
Allow the leaf to color to as brown as it will get. Indoors, you can just let them color-cure on the stalk. Outdoors, browning leaves become too vulnerable to damage from the weather, and are best harvested before fully curing on the stalk.
You can wash green or yellow leaf safely. If you wash brown (dead) leaf, it will dissolve some of the nicotine and flavors from within the leaf lamina. Dead bugs on fully cured leaf can be brushed off.
Bob
You can wash green or yellow leaf safely. If you wash brown (dead) leaf, it will dissolve some of the nicotine and flavors from within the leaf lamina. Dead bugs on fully cured leaf can be brushed off.
Bob
Bramleyjordan
Well-Known Member
Thank you sir for the extremely helpful information!
Whilst I've got you, is the plant cut down once the flowers have turned into seed pods? I am letting 3 go to flower and 3 I've cut the flowers off. When is an indication when the plant is ready? Is it done in steps starting from the bottom once the leaves begin to yellow?
Thanks
Alpine
Moderator
As hobby growers we have the luxury to pick (known as priming) single leaves when they are mature (for cigar strains) or, even better, when ripe (for cigarettes or pipe).
Stalk harvesting (I.e. cut the whole plant at the base when the majority of leaves are mature-to-ripe) is a method used by commercial growers since it involves less labour during the harvest and subsequent cure (you can hang whole plants instead of single leaves). Don’t look at flowers or seed pods to decide when it’s harvest time: you want leaves, not flowers or pods. Increased rugosity (known as alligator skin) and partial yellowing of the leaf are secure signs of maturity.
If your intent is to collect seeds (from properly bagged flower heads) leave said pods on the plant until they completely turn brown, then cut and hung in a dry place until perfectly dry.
Scan trough the forum for more complete answers, the wiki section is particularly helpful.
pier
Stalk harvesting (I.e. cut the whole plant at the base when the majority of leaves are mature-to-ripe) is a method used by commercial growers since it involves less labour during the harvest and subsequent cure (you can hang whole plants instead of single leaves). Don’t look at flowers or seed pods to decide when it’s harvest time: you want leaves, not flowers or pods. Increased rugosity (known as alligator skin) and partial yellowing of the leaf are secure signs of maturity.
If your intent is to collect seeds (from properly bagged flower heads) leave said pods on the plant until they completely turn brown, then cut and hung in a dry place until perfectly dry.
Scan trough the forum for more complete answers, the wiki section is particularly helpful.
pier
Bramleyjordan
Well-Known Member
Many years ago, while in Limbe, Haiti, I commented on a charming philodendron growing in a hanging pot outdoors, beside the front door of my friend's home. It started near the door handle, climbed over the doorway, and partway down the other side of the door. Typical philodendron leaves, 3 to 4 inches wide.
"Come see the other one that I planted at the same time."
He guided me to a huge breadfruit tree. Climbing its branches was the most massive vine I had ever seen. Fifteen-inch-wide philodendron leaves climbed 30 feet upward, and inch-thick aerial roots dangled menacingly toward the ground. The only difference was that one was potted, the other was not.
Bob
Bramleyjordan
Well-Known Member
Quick question for your knowledgeable lot 
is it okay to hang my yellow/greenish leaves on a washing line in the garden until they turn full yellow? Then I will take them indoors to dry out fully.
Only reason I am asking to do this as they get rained on... Will this cause problems?
is it okay to hang my yellow/greenish leaves on a washing line in the garden until they turn full yellow? Then I will take them indoors to dry out fully.Only reason I am asking to do this as they get rained on... Will this cause problems?
Hanging yellow/green leaves outside - it depends on the temps and humidity and how much green. If it dries green (too quickly) you end up with nasty tasting tobacco with no remedy. If the humidity is too high the leaf can rot before it cures and dries. A better method under high heat/too low or too high humidity would be to yellow the leaves inside a cardboard box in the house. If the humidity is low cover the leaves with a towel or plastic to trap humidity in the box. Shuffle the leaves daily. Not sure of your variety but burley can tend to sun scald. If the leaves are a Virginia flue cure type you can sun cure the leaves. Wilt/yellow in the shade then move to full sun until the stems are crispy dry, then bring them inside in the morning while the leaves are limp enough to handle. Bring them in before rain then take them back into the sun after the rain has passed. At this stage you don’t want to risk mold or rot and the rain can wash off flavor and nicotine as the leaves turn brown. The idea is to keep the leaf alive until it yellows then you can let it die and turn brown. Avoid letting it dry green from low humidity or cure so slowly it rots from high humidity.Quick question for your knowledgeable lot
Only reason I am asking to do this as they get rained on... Will this cause problems?
Bramleyjordan
Well-Known Member
Oldfella
Well-Known Member
I agree with Charly. It just looks like green spots. The first two pics appear to be the same.
Not moldy.
Oldfella
Bramleyjordan
Well-Known Member
Thank you both! Are the leaves still good to keep despite the small green spots? P.s they are still drying out so maybe it is change
Bramleyjordan
Well-Known Member
So the green spots have pretty much gone, thank god its wasnt mold!!
I am now looking into potentially flavouring my tobacco and wondering the following:
I am looking at getting this: https://www.havanahouse.co.uk/produ...iginal-tobacco-flavour-co-single-bottle-15ml/ do you think it is suitable for home grown? It mentions take out pouch so just need to confirm.
Is it best to flavour after kilning and shredding?
Anything else I need to do? I'm not blending tobacco, just grown cherry red.
Thanks!
I am now looking into potentially flavouring my tobacco and wondering the following:
I am looking at getting this: https://www.havanahouse.co.uk/produ...iginal-tobacco-flavour-co-single-bottle-15ml/ do you think it is suitable for home grown? It mentions take out pouch so just need to confirm.
Is it best to flavour after kilning and shredding?
Anything else I need to do? I'm not blending tobacco, just grown cherry red.
Thanks!
Definitely shred first, some of the flavorings and toppings can gum up your shredder.
Oldfella
Well-Known Member
I agree. Been there, done that.
Also I would suggest that you only flavor a small amount of tobacco to start with so you can decide whether you like it or not.
Oldfella
Bramleyjordan
Well-Known Member
Thank you both
- Status