Curing Chamber from the box up My Build

[AmaxB]

I'll take a pic of what I have to use to get a true reading for my job. I'll show ya both old and new. but air movement has always been a controlling factor when taking true wet bulb measurements.

Please do I need all the education / information I can get

 

[deluxestogie]

Everyone is familiar with "Wind Chill Factor," which is an estimate of the effect of air movement on the speed with which ambient cold air will chill exposed human skin. Wet bulb temperature readings are likewise dependent on air movement to equalize the RH surrounding the wick with the RH of the chamber as a whole--within a reasonable length of time. The upper limit of effect (lowering of the wet bulb temp due to air movement) is merely that the difference between the wet bulb temp and the dry bulb is a true indicator of ambient humidity at any given time. Extra air movement (containing the same RH) won't reduce the wet buld temp any lower.

With zero air movement, the air immediately surrounding the wick covering the wet bulb becomes saturated, reducing the evaporative cooling of that thermometer. Even with hurricane force wind, the air immediately surrounding the wet bulb wick can only evaporate water into the same ambient air--it just gets there faster.

I suspect that simple air convection in a heated chamber is sufficient to give a good wet bulb reading +- a few minutes.

Bob

 

[AmaxB]

I've read all of that in several documents but I want is to see what workhorse has got

 

[workhorse_01]

Ok, I got the video up and boy do i sound like an idiot, so turn off the volume, LOL.The video shows the tools anyway.A Taylor sling that i havn"t used in about 15yrs. and a fieldpeice that i use regularly.http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=alrrI0IiLU0

 

[bonehead]

if you know anyone who grows indoors with hydroponics they can give you information or a hydro book. it has a lot of info about night time and daytime temp. swings and how the rh. goes up at night (temp. usually drops because lights are off) and how to control it so you dont grow fungus or mold. i use intake and exaust fans hooked up to a temp and humidity controler.

 

[AmaxB]

Ok, I got the video up and boy do i sound like an idiot, so turn off the volume, LOL.The video shows the tools anyway.A Taylor sling that i havn"t used in about 15yrs. and a fieldpeice that i use regularly.http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=alrrI0IiLU0

Sounded just fine to me! Just had to post this didn't ya!!! Now am thinking I need to relocate my digital RH sensor over to the exhaust vent will get more air stream there.
WAS BLIND BUT NOW SEE will need to do it soon so I can see the difference.

 

[AmaxB]

Changed location of the digital RH sensor now will see what we get....

 

[Fisherman]

Ok, I got the video up and boy do i sound like an idiot, so turn off the volume, LOL.The video shows the tools anyway.A Taylor sling that i havn"t used in about 15yrs. and a fieldpeice that i use regularly.http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=alrrI0IiLU0

When I have to take an ambient temp at work , I have to swing the temperature probe also. And when temping a cargo tank it is imperative to move the probe... even in 300 deg F + asphalt or you can be off in that stuff by as much as 10 deg F

 

[AmaxB]

Moving the sensor did make a difference the Dry Bulb / Wet Bulb and the Digital RH are 1% apart.

 

[AmaxB]

Just finished smoking a sampling of what got in there sweating and it is not to bad smoother than the last batch. But is a little moist so I am going to let it dry a bit and smoke another, if OK I'll
get it out of there and will start the Flue Curing of my Leaf in the patch.

 

[Knucklehead]

Looking forward to the flue cure run. You've had me in suspense all season. It looks like your leaf will be ready when you are. Good luck.

 

[Fisherman]

Yes that one could work and it has data transfer (RS485) to link to PC but you would need to find software I didn't notice any at the site I found it on.
http://www.lightobject.com/JLD634-R...NACE-KILN-OVEN-64-set-timer-control-P485.aspx The SSR Relay out signal is good to 6v 40ma
the cost is sick at 85 bucks nice find.

Was re reading the thread and found a helpful link about programming the JLD634 controller:
http://www.lightobject.info/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=631&p=2040&hilit=JLD634+Ramp%2FSoak+PID+Temperature+Controller#p2040


I think the manual has been somewhat translated : Read post by "Ray"
http://www.lightobject.info/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=713&p=2441&hilit=JLD634#p2441

 

[AmaxB]

Looking forward to the flue cure run. You've had me in suspense all season. It looks like your leaf will be ready when you are. Good luck.

Smoked 4 cigs of what is in the chamber now just finished the last one. It is not ready to come out yet. Had asked questions about the ripeness of my leaf yesterday and received great answers. So leaving this batch in a while longer is ok.
Sorry Knuckles you will have to remain in suspense a little longer, on the bright side it will make it just that much better. I got cold feet but am itching to get it going I want to smoke some of that stuff from the yard.

 

[AmaxB]

Was re reading the thread and found a helpful link about programming the JLD634 controller:
http://www.lightobject.info/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=631&p=2040&hilit=JLD634+Ramp%2FSoak+PID+Temperature+Controller#p2040


I think the manual has been somewhat translated : Read post by "Ray"
http://www.lightobject.info/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=713&p=2441&hilit=JLD634#p2441

All of that has got me lost, looks like a helpful forum though. The manual is not much help..

 

[workhorse_01]

I know I read it too.

All of that has got me lost, looks like a helpful forum though. The manual is not much help..

 

[deluxestogie]

You may want to remove a small amount of the kilning tobacco, and set it aside for a couple of weeks. It really does change during that time.

Bob

 

[AmaxB]

You may want to remove a small amount of the kilning tobacco, and set it aside for a couple of weeks. It really does change during that time.

Bob

I agree it does change I feel it gets better with time. When I take a sample to smoke test I grab a fair handful shred it and put it into it's own container labeled. I will smoke a cig from it now and than.
My experience (kiln) limited as it is has shown me 2 weeks-no / 3 weeks-could be / 4 weeks-getting good / 5 weeks-better and 6 weeks I don't know. Think I read some where that after a period of time the aging process will stop.

 

[spencerpearson]

I read that it gets better but I have seen pic were people compress it into little tobacco bricks to dry. I wondered if that makes a difference on the age pros as well.

 

[AmaxB]

Moving the sensor did make a difference the Dry Bulb / Wet Bulb and the Digital RH are 1% apart.

When checking and doing the things I do every day when running my chamber I found the Dry / Wet Bulb reading for RH to be the same as my Digital PID RH reading 73%.
This is really nice to know and maybe great for you guys who are not Digitally inclined much easier on the old wallet too.
I may have to start a new thread with a - exactly how I made this thing. I think I will it is GOOD to share

Will do it later today

 

[AmaxB]

I read that it gets better but I have seen pic were people compress it into little tobacco bricks to dry. I wondered if that makes a difference on the age pros as well.

Have a look here spencerpearson - http://wholeleaftobaccollc.com/forum/showthread.php?2407-Tobacco-Blocks-in-a-Kiln