If a batch has not germinated after a week (at a suitable temperature), then I start a second try of that variety, while maintaining the first.
Bob
Bob
deluxestogie Grow Log 2014
- Thread starter deluxestogie
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Yes, I wondered about that. Had the first appearing after 3-5 days, a few very weak ones a little bit later, then nothing anymore afterwards. Probably the germination rate of the seeds is just low for some reason. Will try again with two more batches.
Going green.
Bob
Bob
chillardbee
Well-Known Member
That's a good idea. I was thinking that I was going to start a few more varieties than I was going to need so that in case some of the seeds I'm planning to grow don't start, I'll still have an oppertunity to grow something. Increase the odds of planting all 125 plots.
On my enclosed back porch, the seedlings, now about 2-1/2 weeks since starting germination, think they're outdoors, and that it's Spring time.
Their covers are now left off all the time. For the occasional failed seedling, I go to the original germination cups and pluck a replacement. The lids of the cups are left ajar.
I'll keep the cups going for a few more weeks.
On my open front porch, I think I'm in my office, and that it's not yet Springtime.
Bob
Their covers are now left off all the time. For the occasional failed seedling, I go to the original germination cups and pluck a replacement. The lids of the cups are left ajar.
I'll keep the cups going for a few more weeks.
On my open front porch, I think I'm in my office, and that it's not yet Springtime.
Bob
leverhead
Well-Known Member
You're just protecting yourself from the heat of that cigar.
The porch windows all have a plastic weather seal layer. The door opens into my kitchen, and is left open all the time. So the temp fluctuates between a few degrees cooler and a few degrees warmer than the kitchen.
It's not ideal, but it seems to get the job done without too much additional energy. During the warm months, I run an oscillating fan in the porch to keep the temps more stable, as well as to circulate air among the seedlings.
Bob
Dean
Well-Known Member
Love the size of that cigar Bob, good to put a face to the name..
Rolling a large cigar requires no more time and effort than rolling a small cigar. A fat cigar provides a denser smoke per puff than a thinner cigar. If I've got the time for a real smoke, it only makes sense.
They are more expensive, though. That one probably consumes 75 cents worth of tobacco.
Bob
They are more expensive, though. That one probably consumes 75 cents worth of tobacco.
Bob
DGBAMA
Well-Known Member
Excuse my lack of sympathy, as you enjoy a world class cigar for the same cost as a convenience store Black-n-Mild. 
Indianamac
Well-Known Member
Hang in there Deluxe-before you know it, you'll be smoke'n that in your speedo's!!
My soil analysis results arrived by email today. I ran 2 samples. Below is the result from 1 of them.
The other was similar (in the same general ranges, though varying by about 20%), but with an even higher pH of 7.1. (VH means very high, usually not a problem for nutrients.)
From what I can determine, there's plenty of everything. The only issue seems to be the pH. Their recommendation ignored the pH, and just suggested adding 6:6:18 fertilizer for the hell of it. Since Virginia soils are, for the most part, too acidic, I added low-to-modest dolomitic limestone for several years, though not last season. I guess that didn't help the situation. [Curiously, the bed with Frenching last season shows the lower of the two pH readings.] BUT all the rest of the tobacco seemed to thrive.
So I'm going to ignore the facile recommendation for fertilizer. The matter of the most appropriate way to lower the pH a few tenths of a point is open for your suggestions. I suppose I could just use the same sulfur that's suggested for blueberries and azaleas.
Bob
The other was similar (in the same general ranges, though varying by about 20%), but with an even higher pH of 7.1. (VH means very high, usually not a problem for nutrients.)
From what I can determine, there's plenty of everything. The only issue seems to be the pH. Their recommendation ignored the pH, and just suggested adding 6:6:18 fertilizer for the hell of it. Since Virginia soils are, for the most part, too acidic, I added low-to-modest dolomitic limestone for several years, though not last season. I guess that didn't help the situation. [Curiously, the bed with Frenching last season shows the lower of the two pH readings.] BUT all the rest of the tobacco seemed to thrive.
So I'm going to ignore the facile recommendation for fertilizer. The matter of the most appropriate way to lower the pH a few tenths of a point is open for your suggestions. I suppose I could just use the same sulfur that's suggested for blueberries and azaleas.
Bob
Here are some links I found that you may find informative. The third link discusses the relationship between ammonia fertilizers and soil pH. It states that adding ammonium will acidify the soil. The Kentucky link discusses sulphur.
http://www2.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/agr/agr1/agr1.pdf
http://msucares.com/pubs/infosheets/is0372.pdf
https://www.extension.iastate.edu/nwcrops/fertilizer_and_soil_ph.htm
The Kentucky link mentions a target pH of 6.6, so you're probably fine with 6.9. Quote from the Kentucky link.
"Lime Limestone should be applied in the fall and thoroughly mixed
with the soil one to two years ahead of the crop. If applied in the
spring before transplanting, or if more than 4 T/A are applied,
plow one-half down and disc in the other half for soils with a
water pH below 6.0.
Rates—If water pH is below 6.4, see page 5, and use the rate
appropriate for a target pH of 6.6."
http://www2.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/agr/agr1/agr1.pdf
http://msucares.com/pubs/infosheets/is0372.pdf
https://www.extension.iastate.edu/nwcrops/fertilizer_and_soil_ph.htm
The Kentucky link mentions a target pH of 6.6, so you're probably fine with 6.9. Quote from the Kentucky link.
"Lime Limestone should be applied in the fall and thoroughly mixed
with the soil one to two years ahead of the crop. If applied in the
spring before transplanting, or if more than 4 T/A are applied,
plow one-half down and disc in the other half for soils with a
water pH below 6.0.
Rates—If water pH is below 6.4, see page 5, and use the rate
appropriate for a target pH of 6.6."
http://www2.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/agr/agr1/agr1.pdf
Page 7 of the Kentucky pdf discusses the high chlorides in animal manures and states that they can have an adverse effect on curing. It didn't really say if this was composted manure or raw.
Page 7 of the Kentucky pdf discusses the high chlorides in animal manures and states that they can have an adverse effect on curing. It didn't really say if this was composted manure or raw.
Brown Thumb
Well-Known Member
That test looks pretty good, you got that back fast. Still waiting on mine. From what I have read there is no fast way to lower ph. But then again I could be wrong like usual. Chit I would use what you got and some nitrogen in the beginning.
For them to Rock & Roll.
BT
For them to Rock & Roll.
BT
Were's the Nitrogen levels?, Ammoniacal and Nitrate? Also I don't see a Sulfur level.
Edit: I should note that I really like this place for soil testing. For $25.00 you get a hell-of-a-lot of info, http://highbrixhome.com/the-soil-test.html
Edit: I should note that I really like this place for soil testing. For $25.00 you get a hell-of-a-lot of info, http://highbrixhome.com/the-soil-test.html
Nitrogen levels are so transient, fluctuating with the weather, that they don't bother to report N. They just assume you'll put in what you will take out during the grow each year. The most interesting finding of this report is that the 40 bags of composted manure that I had planned to purchase for this year are unnecessary. I've been building the soil with it for years now.
About 3 feet below the surface, my entire growing area--I believe--is lined with a crumbly limestone/shale layer. So attempting to lower the pH may be a fool's errand. I'm considering just going with the soil as is.
Bob
About 3 feet below the surface, my entire growing area--I believe--is lined with a crumbly limestone/shale layer. So attempting to lower the pH may be a fool's errand. I'm considering just going with the soil as is.
Bob
Mad Oshea
Taking a break
The root ball is two ft. deep and maybe the same wide.(depending on the type) One fish in the hole and a worm or two and then the plant. Then some water. Hum? I told You You were fun LOL
Nitrogen levels are indeed transient but by testing for "nitrates" you can get a better feel for your Nitrogen levels. The "nitrogen" levels I like to see in my soil are about 45 lb/acre for Nitrate and about 5 to 10 for Ammonia. I've fertilzed in the past, raising my Nitrogen level to about 80 and this gives me too much nicotine in my tobacco. A sulfur level would have been nice too know. Your pH might not be due to all the lime you've added in the past but rather from a low sulfur level. My soil's pH by the way is usually right at 7. I have no issues with my tobacco, it smokes and tastes fine. Most of the recommendations from Big Ag are for maximum quantity, not quality.
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