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Knucklehead

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I think there's a thread around here somewhere on aging flue cured leaves. (Look in the archives, no pictures, much faster)
 

BarG

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I just recieved a sample of prilep and celikhan that came out of Bobs cozy can. If there was such a thing as tobacco candy ,that is what they smelled like when you first open the bags. Or maybe fresh baked pie! I immediately shredded and rolled a leaf of the prilep puro since I hadn't rolled a cig. in 2 days[been living on cigars] and I think personaly it smokes well and tastes great as a stand alone cig. I then mixed it with a traditional cig blend I have and I like it best by itself. I still suck at pipe blends so will save some for a pipe taste test for aroma and try the celikhan Tomorrow.

I will need to review your specs on the cozy can for next year, I would love to make myself one. It would be worth the investment.

Thanks Bob, very nice leaf.
 

deluxestogie

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Tobacco candy! I knew I recognized something.

Specs:
  • trash can
  • insulation
  • water heater thermostat (industrial--up to 180ºF)
  • Crockpot

Everything else is fluff.

Bob
 

BarG

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It's still not to late since I still have a huge sucker crop this year. I may just need to buy the can and thermostat if my fridge kiln stat does not go that high. 9 more days and full load will be ready to come out. Probably 8 months to a years worth at least.
I noticed that after adding a very small fan [the same one I gutted from this fridge] and kilning in summer [located in shop] I was able to maintain 70% humidity much easier and have had no soggy leaves or mold and no drying out.
 

DonH

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Tobacco candy! I knew I recognized something.

Specs:
  • trash can
  • insulation
  • water heater thermostat (industrial--up to 180ºF)
  • Crockpot

Everything else is fluff.

Bob
Mine's almost built. Just need to put in the tygon tubing and the insulation. Bob, this was EASY! If this works...
 

DonH

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I finished assembling my cozy can today. I'm doing a test run with it empty now. Only changes I made was to insulate the bottom of the can and, since I already had one, I used a Ranco for the thermostat since it can go to lower temps than a water heater one, eliminating the need to use seedling warmer pads for the yellowing phase.

Just in time because I have some ripe VBL and Big Gem leaves ready to go. My only worry is keeping the leaves from touching the crockpot. It's a shame they don't make the 60 gallon cans anymore.
 

deluxestogie

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The Ranco controller should work well. I believe the least expensive alternative to the seedling mats is to install two water heater thermostats--an industrial and home--on the can. If the home version goes down to 90º, then you would plug the Crockpot into that one during yellowing, then switch to the high-temp thermostat for the remaining phases.

Bob
 

DonH

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Bob, how much do you vent with the clothespins?

I ordered a digital remote hygrometer but it hasn't come in yet. But what would be the target humidity for the yellowing and lamina drying phase?

I like the Ranco a lot. You can set a temp differential so you can either keep the temp in a narrow range or give it a wider differential so it doesn't turn the crockpot on and off so much.
 

deluxestogie

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I use no gauge for humidity. I pretend it's 1867, and I'm working a flue-barn stoked with wood. I've even stopped using the high-tech clothespins. I just crack the lid a bit, and let her fly. I do keep water in the (unpowered) Crockpot during the yellowing phase.

For the recommended values of temp and humidity, check AmaxB's thread on his chamber. Somewhere in that is the graph of dry-bulb/ wet-bulb/ humidity, by day. I simply set the temp, watch the color of the leaf at ~95ºF. When it's yellow (which has been taking ~4 days with the Orientals), I crank it to 120ºF for 24 hours (can't peek any more), 135ºF for 24 hours and finally 165ºF for 24 hours. During that last 24 hours (stem kill), the lid is fully closed. It's crude, but works well enough for me to keep feeding my good leaf into it.

Smell
During yellowing, it should have a warm, grassy smell.
During wilting, a cooked asparagus aroma is recognizable. If you get this during yellowing, the temp is too high.
During drying, it begins to smell like tobacco.
During stem kill, I get a toasty aroma.

Bob
 

johnlee1933

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I finished assembling my cozy can today. I'm doing a test run with it empty now. Only changes I made was to insulate the bottom of the can and, since I already had one, I used a Ranco for the thermostat since it can go to lower temps than a water heater one, eliminating the need to use seedling warmer pads for the yellowing phase.

Just in time because I have some ripe VBL and Big Gem leaves ready to go. My only worry is keeping the leaves from touching the crockpot. It's a shame they don't make the 60 gallon cans anymore.
You might cut a hole in the bottom of the trash can and then set it on top of the crock pot. -- Downside -- insulation would be a bit more of a problem.
 

AmaxB

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I use no gauge for humidity. I pretend it's 1867, and I'm working a flue-barn stoked with wood. I've even stopped using the high-tech clothespins. I just crack the lid a bit, and let her fly. I do keep water in the (unpowered) Crockpot during the yellowing phase.

For the recommended values of temp and humidity, check AmaxB's thread on his chamber. Somewhere in that is the graph of dry-bulb/ wet-bulb/ humidity, by day. I simply set the temp, watch the color of the leaf at ~95ºF. When it's yellow (which has been taking ~4 days with the Orientals), I crank it to 120ºF for 24 hours (can't peek any more), 135ºF for 24 hours and finally 165ºF for 24 hours. During that last 24 hours (stem kill), the lid is fully closed. It's crude, but works well enough for me to keep feeding my good leaf into it.

Smell
During yellowing, it should have a warm, grassy smell.
During wilting, a cooked asparagus aroma is recognizable. If you get this during yellowing, the temp is too high.
During drying, it begins to smell like tobacco.
During stem kill, I get a toasty aroma.

Bob

Curing Schedual Chart.jpg
 

leverhead

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If you take the dry and wet bulb temperatures at face value, the correct values for the RH are 93% for yellowing and 53% for wilting.
 
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