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DGBAMA Redneck Curing Chamber Build

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DGBAMA

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That looks good I was going to suggest one from a broken Xbox

Don't even remember where this one came from. It was in the "electrical bin" under the workbench. I have this bad habit of taking broken stuff apart and removing any thing that I think might be useful at a latter time before throwing the item in the trash.
 

johnlee1933

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Don't even remember where this one came from. It was in the "electrical bin" under the workbench. I have this bad habit of taking broken stuff apart and removing any thing that I think might be useful at a latter time before throwing the item in the trash.
And you call that a BAD habit ?? Shame on you. :rolleyes:
 

AmaxB

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Know of one that reads F instead of C?

Would really like something that can control both on and off set-points.
I just did a quick search and found that one usually you can switch from C to F & F to C in settings configuration. That would control on and off.
The thermal couple in this case a K type senses temperature and is how the controller can display temperature. PV shows temperature - SV is the set temperature / temperature is below the SV it turns on heat - temperature is above the SV it shuts off the heater
Here is another.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-Digita...579?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e6bcfc5cb

Pins 1&2 110VAC (power)
Pins 5&6 are signal to a simple 4VDC SSR (solid state relay) often takes a 3 to 32VDC signal on one side this trips the 11VAC Line switch on the other side of the SSR on & off for device (in your case a heater) a 20 AMP SSR would be plenty for you.
Pins 11&12 are the thermal couple (heat sensor) you could ignore the rest of the pins

Accuracy: 0.2% -plus minus of the SV or temperature set point (is fairly tight)
easy set up
PC9-10.jpg
.
Think I got this right but could be wrong
 

DGBAMA

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Simple enough. I deal with automotive electrical on a daily basis so relay wiring with either positive or negative "signal" is pretty basic..

Never thought about using a DC signal to energize an AC load relay.
 

workhorse_01

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The pid must have a diode at the slave position. By being DC it should have a heavier winding in the relay, and the contact points on the load side of the relay shouldn't care. Johnlee can go deeper if you would like. HVAC control boards have gone to the same thing. Less problems like static elect.
 

DGBAMA

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32 hrs running. Box did well overnight.
High/low temp: 106\98
Humidity : 95/85

Noticeably less green but not yellow.
 

DGBAMA

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36 hrs into yellowing. Opened things up to install the heat sink on my WH thermostat (needed an excuse to peek) and rotate the hanging sticks. What I found is a thing of beauty: golden Silver River. There is one stick of Virginia in there, I think I picked too early as it is not coloring well.

When temp comes back up from being open I will begin the ramp to wilting temp.
 

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AmaxB

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That is looking great!!!!
I could scream.....
Your top is warmer than bottom?
The photo is giving up a lot
thank you...
 

DGBAMA

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That is looking great!!!!
I could scream.....
Your top is warmer than bottom?
The photo is giving up a lot
thank you...

The stick at the bottom was at the top closest to the door and vent. Pic was taken while rotating. The most uniform yellowing was on the middle sticks Leaves closer to the walls had least yellowing. An effect similar to what I have read on pile curing. I think a couple tweaks to air circulation and venting are in order before the next batch.
 

DGBAMA

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I may have to rethink my load method

Fyi. Close up of one of the hanging sticks. Pins are 4" apart down each side offset 2". I got 2_3 leaves per pin. The idea was to duplicate the spacing of tying/stringing as closely as possible but without the string.

KISS method.
 

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DGBAMA

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Started on the low end of leaf drying this morning. Long day at work meant could not monitor things as I would like. Need to work out air circulation before the next run. Uniformity is not what I would like. By appearance of the leaf, results are going to range from satisfactory to excellent.
 

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