BarG
Founding Member
Thats a good deal before shipping. Cheaper than buying stainless blanks or small sheets.
Diy tools and accessories
- Thread starter Steve2md
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Thats a good deal before shipping. Cheaper than buying stainless blanks or small sheets.
workhorse_01
Well-Known Member
Guys, I have one of these and they are nice ,I use it for everything http://www.ulu.com/
I have commented on my Kuhn Rikon Kulu in the past:
I use this daily as a chaveta. I ignore the handle, hold it with the handle facing away from me, and hold it by the riser opposite the handle. Unlike the Alaskan Ulu, your hand grip is much closer to the blade, so requires far less arm and elbow motion than the ulu. Since your fingers wrap beneath the riser, your fingertips are not cut to bloody stumps, like johnlee1933's are.
My reason for mentioning it relates to the ideal curvature (of the larger of the two sizes available), combined with a hand position closer to the cutting edge, allowed by the opening that accommodates your fingers. Since the hand is held at an angle to the center of pivot, the leverage is more comfortable than a traditional chaveta, which places the hand grip parallel to the cutting board.
John,
If you have a way to cut an oval finger opening into your new chaveta, and to slope the back edge like the riser of the kulu (pretend the kulu handle has been sawed off), you may be delighted with the mechanics of it (cushioned with your Tygon).
Another approach might be to make a simple curved blade, like the kulu, then fabricate a wood or plastic handle that duplicates the kulu risers, again ignoring the kulu handle.
This is kind of how I hold it. I'm right handed, but the camera is in my right hand.
Bob
I use this daily as a chaveta. I ignore the handle, hold it with the handle facing away from me, and hold it by the riser opposite the handle. Unlike the Alaskan Ulu, your hand grip is much closer to the blade, so requires far less arm and elbow motion than the ulu. Since your fingers wrap beneath the riser, your fingertips are not cut to bloody stumps, like johnlee1933's are.
My reason for mentioning it relates to the ideal curvature (of the larger of the two sizes available), combined with a hand position closer to the cutting edge, allowed by the opening that accommodates your fingers. Since the hand is held at an angle to the center of pivot, the leverage is more comfortable than a traditional chaveta, which places the hand grip parallel to the cutting board.
John,
If you have a way to cut an oval finger opening into your new chaveta, and to slope the back edge like the riser of the kulu (pretend the kulu handle has been sawed off), you may be delighted with the mechanics of it (cushioned with your Tygon).
Another approach might be to make a simple curved blade, like the kulu, then fabricate a wood or plastic handle that duplicates the kulu risers, again ignoring the kulu handle.
This is kind of how I hold it. I'm right handed, but the camera is in my right hand.
Bob
A BLAST FROM MY CHILDHOOD PAST....
it's my childhood '' frosty'' snow cone machione, my mom still had it,, i know ive seen it around in the past...
the principal it works on is just like the cuthof tobacco shredder,,,,
it has a square cylinder at the top, and a push stick,,,,
and a barrel. that spins, { to chop the ice} i tried it with loos leaf baccy,,,,and it shredded it,, kinda fine,
the cuthof says to use a baccy brick, sliced to fit in the hole,
so perhaps if i make a brick, it will be very usefull...
that may have to wait, my baccy supply isnt high enough, to make a brick right now,,,,,
but ive got the mold, i made 3 bricks last year..
i''ll have to get a pic. of my frosty, to all of you
it's my childhood '' frosty'' snow cone machione, my mom still had it,, i know ive seen it around in the past...
the principal it works on is just like the cuthof tobacco shredder,,,,
it has a square cylinder at the top, and a push stick,,,,
and a barrel. that spins, { to chop the ice} i tried it with loos leaf baccy,,,,and it shredded it,, kinda fine,
the cuthof says to use a baccy brick, sliced to fit in the hole,
so perhaps if i make a brick, it will be very usefull...
that may have to wait, my baccy supply isnt high enough, to make a brick right now,,,,,
but ive got the mold, i made 3 bricks last year..
i''ll have to get a pic. of my frosty, to all of you
Looks good. I saw it before in your perique thread. I assume that is a metal cutting edge from the Ebay photo. Two differences, both personal, come to mind:
I made mine to look like the ones I see in the old cigar rolling videos. I like that.
With shipping the ebay one is ~$25. My first one was free. The second cost $5.
I have been using the second one a bit and the Tygon pad is going to become permanent As expected it cushions the hand a bit. Unexpectedly it is a LOT easier to pick up.
It has a razor (well almost) edge and I wonder about keeping it sharp. It is mild steel. I am considering case hardening it. My brother gave me an anvil so I built a forge. Getting it red hot is no problem. I know I need a reducing fire so low air flow, red fire.
I just haven't figured out how to make "casing" powder yet. It is supposed to add carbon the surface so saw dust or soft coal powder seem reasonable. I just haven't pinned it down yet. Naturally I'll play with the old one first.
John
A video I saw years ago by a "real" cigar roller said to keep your Chaveta dull enough so that when you drag it across your arm it does not cut. Personally, for me the sharper the better. When I kept my Chaveta dull, it tore too much of my wrapper leaf.
leverhead
Well-Known Member
"Casing" powder is More granular than a powder, unless you're talking about "Casinite" but that makes a very thin skin of hard material. If you have a ceramic supply house near you, get a pound of Barium Carbonate. Mix it 50/50 by volume with powdered charcoal and add/mix in enough molasses to make a firm ball. Rub it through a piece of window screen and let it dry. Pack your blade and "powder" in some kind of a container that will handle the heat. For small parts I use a piece of black iron pipe (not galvanized) and close it with some damp clay. Get it to a red heat (no shadows) for about 1/2 an hour, break it out quickly into a bucket of water. Check it for hardness with a file, If it's not hard reheat and quench. Draw in your oven (soon after hardening) at 350/400 F for about 1/2 an hour.
Thanks. Can do and WILCO. The edge is sharp now. I assume casing will dull the edge some. If I them rework the edge with diamond hones will I still have a hard edge or will I have ground the case away?
Calcium Carbonate is readily available. Could I use that instead of Barium Carbonate?
John
leverhead
Well-Known Member
Nope, it gives up it's CO2 at too low of a temperature to useful. Look around your area, I thought there were "crafty" people near Danbury. If not Try this link
http://store.ceramicstoreinc.com/rawmaterials.html
If you use Casinite, you'll wear right through it, it's too thin. Regular case hardening on thin stock will go right through it pretty quickly. Google "Case hardening", it's not real fussy as a process, but it is temperature dependent. I looked at your pictures and didn't see any plating, just make sure you remove any galvanizing or other coatings before you case harden.
The other thing you could do go to amazondotcom or an industrial supplier and look for "Tool Steel O1 Flat Stock". It comes down to a 1/16 thick in different widths, It's not cheap but it would make heat treatment allot easier.
http://store.ceramicstoreinc.com/rawmaterials.html
If you use Casinite, you'll wear right through it, it's too thin. Regular case hardening on thin stock will go right through it pretty quickly. Google "Case hardening", it's not real fussy as a process, but it is temperature dependent. I looked at your pictures and didn't see any plating, just make sure you remove any galvanizing or other coatings before you case harden.
The other thing you could do go to amazondotcom or an industrial supplier and look for "Tool Steel O1 Flat Stock". It comes down to a 1/16 thick in different widths, It's not cheap but it would make heat treatment allot easier.
Matty
Well-Known Member
If I remember right, case hardening is achieved at about 1/64" per hour to a max depth of 1/8", I could be wrong it's been awhile. How about starting with an alloy steel, like a wide bandsaw blade? Even plain carbon steel (1045 or higher) keeps an edge for quite awhile.
Thanks. I might just do that as it is just mild steel. Pretty quickly we'll see how it holds it's edge.
John
Steve2md
Well-Known Member
Oh hell yes! I miss my snoopy snow cone maker!
amazing she still had it,,,, but i recall seeing it,, all thru my teens,,, my adult years,, e,t,c,
i asked her about it after seeing a video, of the cuthouf machine in action,
now i just got to get a baccy brick to try it out with...
possiblly this season we will see, as my supply is running low, NO BRICKS RIGHT NOW,
Steve2md
Well-Known Member
Wow! Must be excessive smoking, since I've never heard of too much sharing,,,
BarG
Founding Member
I vaguely rember those. Long term memory loss here. It's like a hand crank cheese grater for ice,With a square feed hole.
exactlly,
i got to take a pic of it,,, i had my camera out yesterday,, and didnt get a shot of it,
but i got a paper shredder from her also, her trash may work for me,
gonna experiment with both of them, and photo them in action,
pic's of the tonight,
heres my frosty,,and paper shredder,
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By chickenhawk434 at 2012-06-08
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By chickenhawk434 at 2012-06-08
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By chickenhawk434 at 2012-06-08
That's quite a manly frosty. I love the first image. Only a truly self-confident person would be comfortable admitting that he used a frosty for shredding tobacco. (Maybe frosty was a Joe Camel ploy to encourage children to use tobacco!)
Bob
Bob
i havent tried the '' frosty'' properly.
the cuthouf machine requires bricks to be placed in the hopper,
so if i place a brick in there, i may have a good processor here.
and the paper shredder, dont look like a whimp either,
the cuthouf machine requires bricks to be placed in the hopper,
so if i place a brick in there, i may have a good processor here.
and the paper shredder, dont look like a whimp either,
Rayshields
Well-Known Member
Sometimes a guy can get carried away at garage sales. Yesterday my town had a town wide garage sale and I found a couple of things that got my attention. A box of roll your own cigarette papers dated January 17. 1986. Probably over 1000 papers for $2. There must be 50 or more packages of papers from several manufacturers, some from France. Then I bought a Propel salad master for $1 that I am going to try for a shredder. I don't suppose it will work, but we will see.
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