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Tobaccofieldsforever 2021 Grow Log

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Oldfella

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yikes. This picture is upper/midstalk bright leaf. It appeared ripe when primed, the plant was topped at least two weeks ago (I can't remember exactly when...oops). I am yellowing/wilting it in the shade with the intention of sun curing it. It is hanging from a tree branch by wire I ran through the stem. It is in all day shade. Hot, dry days (upper 80's, lower mid 90's) unseasonably cold nights (upper 50's lower 60's). It is usually soaked with dew in the morning but has only been "curing" for a few days now. I have seen this kind of blackening before on greenish leaf put in the sun. These are kind of experimental leaves I primed to try and figure out how things would cure in this weather. (I may have a picture of them right after priming)
View attachment 38097
I can definitely see signs of something wrong. They are showing blue areas in patches, if these are the same leaves as in your 1st picture I'd say blue mold. What to do about it I don't know as I've never had it, hopefully another member will be able to help.
Oldfella
 

Charly

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Black patches on air cured leaves can happen for some reasons.
First : don't let the leaves under the tree, if they are wet it's not good.
Cold temperatures are not helping the yellowing phase.
Flooded plants can alter the chemicals in the leaves and make yellowing harder.
Immatures leaves or too much nitrogene can dry black.

I had some black leaves before, it was on stunted plants when the weather was cold.

You can put your next leaves in pile in a cardboard box in a warm place to help them yellowing and only dry them in the sun when they are yellow.
Check them each day to make sure there is no condensation or they will rot.
 

Tobaccofieldsforever

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One of the diagnostic approaches is a cut in the stalk and look for brownish streaks.
I noticed brown in the stem when I primed some leaves off this plant. These leaves are from the plant that was doing the absolute worst during the flooding and I didn't think it would make it at all.
 

Tobaccofieldsforever

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You can put your next leaves in pile in a cardboard box in a warm place to help them yellowing and only dry them in the sun when they are yellow.
I am quite familiar with this process. It is the ONLY way I have color cured up until this year. About 50 leaves or so stacked and wrapped in a canvas dropcloth (paint section at LOWE'S). Break pile down, and rearrange inside out about everyday (takes a couple/few days initially to reach desired internal temp.) It was space efficient and worked well so it was always the go to. It also didn't require building anything and leaving a heat source running (the main thing that scares me with kilns/flue chambers) unattended for days/weeks. That being said, I DO plan on building a proper kiln/flue chamber soon although I remain reluctant to leave an unattended heat source running for weeks.
 

deluxestogie

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Ah! The great flood of 2021. I had forgotten about your flood, though I'm sure you have not. (I read every post on the forum, so I quickly lose track of whose grow has experienced which problems.)

So, too many variables for me to say what caused what. Your harlequin leaf has apparently had a hard life, and reflects that. I find the easiest diagnoses are made from evaluating a vector, rather than a single data point.

Bob
 

Tobaccofieldsforever

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Ah! The great flood of 2021. I had forgotten about your flood, though I'm sure you have not. (I read every post on the forum, so I quickly lose track of whose grow has experienced which problems.)

So, too many variables for me to say what caused what. Your harlequin leaf has apparently had a hard life, and reflects that. I find the easiest diagnoses are made from evaluating a vector, rather than a single data point.

Bob
Give it to me straight Doc...how long does the leaf have? I can take it! Yes, I will collect more field data. An extrapolation with existing points would be reckless, bad science.
 

Tobaccofieldsforever

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you have to post some time sequence photos of what happens to that specific leaf over the next week or so. Please.
Here is that leaf and the other one I hung with it that had similar odd coloring. Not a whole lot of difference. You can see in the other leaf that as the area where the black begins to "yellow" the black turns brown. It's like it doesn't have the ability to yellow in that area so it goes straight to brown...I don't know.
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Here is one of my paint strainer bags in action as a bud bag. I am pretty happy with how they are working (This is a virginia brightleaf plant)
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Tobaccofieldsforever

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I have noticed that some of my burley leaves that are maturing on the stalk are turning white rather than yellow. The same way a leaf usually turns yellow on the stalk but the color is white instead. Is this something to be concerned about?
 

deluxestogie

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Garden20150728_1957_Chillards_indoorColorCompare_600.jpg


@chillardbee grew an unidentified burley, that he subsequently named Chillard's White Angel Leaf. When I grew it, the lower leaf matured to white, but color-cured to a rich brown. White stem burleys have a genetic defect that causes their chlorophyll metabolism to be screwy.

Bob
 

Tobaccofieldsforever

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Garden20150728_1957_Chillards_indoorColorCompare_600.jpg


@chillardbee grew an unidentified burley, that he subsequently named Chillard's White Angel Leaf. When I grew it, the lower leaf matured to white, but color-cured to a rich brown. White stem burleys have a genetic defect that causes their chlorophyll metabolism to be screwy.

Bob
huh, well mine is also unidentified. I'll have to get in touch with the owner of the farm market and ask her if she knows what kind of burley it is. I think they bought their seed online but I didn't ask from who. Thanks for the info, that's a pretty cool looking leaf. Any bizarre flavor or other smoking characteristics to it?
 

deluxestogie

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Any bizarre flavor or other smoking characteristics to it?
Just a nice, medium-strength burley. Just remember to allow the cure to continue for a couple of weeks beyond the coloring, since their coloration is out of sync with the other metabolic processes.

Bob
 

Tobaccofieldsforever

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Just a nice, medium-strength burley. Just remember to allow the cure to continue for a couple of weeks beyond the coloring, since their coloration is out of sync with the other metabolic processes.

Bob
Ok. So, do you know the "origin story" of white stem burley? My understanding is that most burley grown today is considered white stem (this could be COMPLETELY WRONG...idk). This makes me curious as to where this defect originated and why it is so common today?
 

deluxestogie

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I have not found a convincing history of white-stem burley. The other grouping is called "red burley", though I cannot tell you what varieties those might be. My guess is that during the 19th century, burleys that color-cured most easily were casually selected by growers. Due to a lack of any understanding of genetics, the truly distinctive "white" burley gradually began to lose its apparently recessive chlorophyll mutation.

Here is all the information I've found:

VARIETIES OF TOBACCO GROWN.
The White Burley, the only variety grown to any extent, is of medium size, the leaves usually attaining a length of about 24 inches, sometimes, however, on heavily-manured lots, reaching a length of 42 inches. It has generally in growing cream -colored leaves, but these run into various shades of green ; so that a field shows a great variety of colors, from a milky white to a deep sea-green.
The Red Burley, which produces a greater number of pounds to a given area, is planted to some extent; but the quality is not so fine, nor does it command such ready sale as the white variety.
The White Burley is losing some of its distinctive features. At first the stalk and leaves were white, but each successive year shows a larger proportion of green. The original White Burley, when cured, had a golden surface, but this golden color is giving place to a yellowish -brown or red, and each successive crop shows a nearer approach to the Red Burley.
Killebrew, JB. REPORT ON THE CULTURE AND CURING OF TOBACCO IN THE UNITED STATES. Govt. Printing Office, Washington, DC (1884).​

You can find this informative book in various formats at archive.org, along with Killebrew's second book (1898).

Bob
 

Tobaccofieldsforever

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I noticed 2 volunteer tobacco plants on either side of a smaller virginia brightleaf plant I have. I have since removed them but I have no idea how they could've been there. There is nothing close to seed in that field (only immature pods at the moment). I am thinking that they sprung up from the shallow roots of the plant. I now noticed it happening on another plant of the same variety and can see a shallow root right next to it through the crack in the dirt. I have two bright leaf plants in my patch right now that I successfully grew out from 2 small suckers that I found on a large plant. They were in the dirt close to the main stalk, but had their own roots and were also connected to the main stalk by a small umbilical root (that's what I called it). The reason I am writing about all of this is because I had no idea tobacco could do such things. Maybe in the distant future it will evolve into producing only root clones rather than seed pods...I will try and post some pictures of some of the root plants I find.
 

deluxestogie

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Cultivated plants mostly "evolve" from human actions. (For example, non-bursting seed pods are a painfully disadvantageous trait for the plants. But we like that.) Since tobacco is a tropical perennial, it will always make an attempt to reproduce (put up a sucker), so long as there is any life left in the root system.

Bob
 
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