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What I've learned so far (about baccy growing): @OwlHoot

OwlHoot

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May 23, 2022
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Devon, UK
I started growing Virginia tobacco earlier this year (but not early enough, according to the pros who kindly replied to my introductory post, and now I realise they were correct! ) So the first lesson is to sow on Feb 1st (in the UK) indoors to give the seedlings a couple of months to get started before transplanting outdoors or (my plan) to bigger pots in a greenhouse.

Having the seedlings all jammed together and growing in mats like watercress, naturally I had to start separating them at some stage. By experimentation, I found that seedlings all die if transplanted without root soil when their leaves are less than about an inch long (The FAQ mentions this, or similar). They just can't take the disruption, and flake out. Seedlings with larger leaves survive, if judiciously watered, but their growth is delayed for two or three weeks, presumably while they devote all their effort to sorting out their new root structures. So in summary, messing with the plants' roots is a no-no. (The FAQ was clear on how to germinate and start individual seeds in separate small pots. So next year I will follow those instructions religiously and not wing it and end up having to separate the seedlings and in the process disrupt their root soil.)

I plan to buy an indoor greenhouse, to grow the seedlings in, this little beaut https://www.harvst.co.uk/product/heated-mini-greenhouse-s24/

I now have about forty plants, a couple of feet tall, in 40cm pots outdoors. But as this year's growing season is drawing to a close, and pests are starting to show an unhealthy interest in the plants, judging by nibbles and holes appearing in them, I wonder if I should start harvesting at least the largest leaves now, even though they are still green. Is this likely to work, or very unlikely?

The next question is how and where to dry them. The fermenting stage should be easy, as I have ordered a temperature and humidity controlled Exo Terra Reptile Egg Incubator PRO, this bad boy:

I snipped and tied a bundle of half a dozen green leaves and started drying them over a hot air blower, but when the outer parts of the leaves started crumbling to dust I decided this was a Very Bad Idea, and now they are hanging in a fairly dry and warm room. They feel a bit damp and "limp lettucy", which I suppose is a good thing. But I'm wondering how long to leave them before transferring them to the incubator.

Question: Looking ahead, if I manage to produce any usable baccy, I will want to vacuum pack it for medium to long term storage. So can one buy reasonably priced vacuum or inert gas (nitrogen? ) plastic bag sealers?

Well, I've rambled on long enough, and will be very interested in others' thoughts

Cheers

John (Ramsden)
 
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Old Gasman

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Feb 28, 2022
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Norfolk (U.K not Virginia)
I'm new to tobacco growing myself so my advice may be well off but I'd be tempted to leave the plants outside as long as possible, maybe a few slug pellets if that's what's eating your plants. Then I would suggest cutting the plants down whole when the Autumn starts and hanging them upside down in a garage or shed and they should gradually colour cure.
 

BrotherJ

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Mar 27, 2022
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Location
Georgia, US
I haven't grown any tobacco yet, but my understanding is that you'll want the leaves to start yellowing at least a little bit on the plants before you take them. Either way, you want to avoid letting the harvested leaves dry out too quickly. They need to stay a bit moist until they've fully yellowed, otherwise they'll dry green and you'll get chlorophyll-flavoured tobacco. Congratulations on your many learning experiences. I have a friend who once said, in relation to gardening in general, "You spend the first two years learning what not to do." If you persevere past these early troubles, you'll know what you're doing soon enough and then it'll all get to be fun.
 
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