Chaveta sharpness

[ChinaVoodoo]

For ultra-sharp tools, like the microtome blade used to slice microscopic tissue sections for mounting on microscope slide (like when your biopsy is sent to the pathologist), the blade is finished on a rotating glass plate smeared with jeweler's rouge. To test the edge, the back of the thumbnail is lightly drawn along the length of the edge. If the nail glides, the blade is done. If the nail feels any resistance or "sawing," then there are burrs remaining on the edge, and it must be returned to the glass/rouge for a while longer.

For a chaveta, I still discourage an edge that is too sharp. If the edge is sharpened at an acute enough angle, it will easily cut leaf, with a rocking motion, even though it is not razor sharp. The sharpening angle can be a problem on a chaveta cut from a thick piece of steel.

Bob

I like that idea. I use rouge on a leather belt which has over time built a gross black smear of stuff. The glass plate would be cleaned after every use. It reminds me of polishing metal samples back in tech school metallurgy class. You went through a series of rotating wet laps. They were like record players with a felt disc on them. You would use a small squirt of water, a couple drops of diamond dust, and let her polish away. After going through progressively smaller diamond sizes, you would have to go to another compound because diamond can only be so small. Magomet rings a bell, but I know there were others. You'd finish and your sample would be a mirror, no matter what you were polishing ; even cast iron and aluminum. I always figured a system like that would make the sharpest blades ever

 

[Ben Brand]

This post reminds me of a study group we had when I was a commercial tobacco farmer!!
This young flashy farmer ( who was farming with his rich Dads money) stood up while we were discussing different ways of producing tobacco, and asked how many tractors we were using per hectare of tobacco....The one old farmer, who was farming for ages stood up and told him... "if you have to many tractors, send some my way"!!!!! What I`m getting at is, Just use your chaveta, doesn't matter how sharp it is, mine is not very sharp, and rusty as hell, but it works okay!!

 

[Smokin Buffalo]

BAG, I just got one of the same chevetas, stainless, and it wouldn't even come close to cutting my tobacco the other day. So now I'm trying to sharpen it. Looks like it will take a while because it is extremely dull. I just wish I knew the angle of the edge so I can sharpen properly.

 

[Knucklehead]

I just wish I knew the angle of the edge so I can sharpen properly.

I bought a used chaveta from Don that came from the Dominican Republic. I also bought one of his new ones. The used chaveta had a much more acute angle on it than the new one. I'll post a photo later when I'm in the basement that may help you figure out the angle. You can change the angle of the new one with a fine bastard file, then switch to stones for sharpening.

 

[kullas]

I am guessing the angle would depend on the surface you are rolling on. If on a hard surface like tile ot stainless you would want a more blint angle so it would stay sharper longer. And on a wooden surface would need a sharper angle to kiss the woods surface a little to cut easier if you are using a rolling motion. And to me even sharper if you was to use a sliding motion to slice the leaf.

 

[First Warrior]

I am a woodturner/sculptor and have made a living with sharp tools for 35 years. I sharpen most of my turning and carving tools to be like razors. My carbon steel chaveta is pretty sharp but not razor sharp as I don't want to get blood on my cigars. I like a 20 degree edge on the chaveta and I touch up with a diamond hone.I roll on wood and wrap on nice sticky stone.

 

[wrapper]

These two were made in about an hour from a retired fret saw blade:


The steel is tough and a little bit flexible, and it takes a really sharp edge. Very comfortable to use with a part rolling part sliding action.

 

[BAGraphics]

Nice blades!

 

[Smokin Harley]

When I made mine , I put the blade about a 30* from level on the belt sander to rough the bevel in, then took it to progressively finer grits until it almost would cut , then to a diamond hone , then to my tungsten rods set at a 40+/-* to really bring it to almost razor edge. I just rock my blade over the leaf , the edge stays sharper longer this way.

 

[wrapper]

When I made mine , I put the blade about a 30* from level on the belt sander to rough the bevel in, then took it to progressively finer grits until it almost would cut , then to a diamond hone , then to my tungsten rods set at a 40+/-* to really bring it to almost razor edge. I just rock my blade over the leaf , the edge stays sharper longer this way.

I will give that a go. Sounds way better than spending a (non-existent) fortune on a Lansky, or similar sharpener.

 

[Gavroche]

My modest...

 

[deluxestogie]

Gavroche,
I have used a similar (6 inch) Kuhn-Rikon kulu as my chaveta for years. It has required no sharpening for over 10,000 cigars. To use it, I don't hold it by the handle, but by the opposite riser, so the handle is pointed away from me.

http://www.amazon.com/Kuhn-Rikon-6-...2384852&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=rikon+kuhn+kulu

Bob