Whatever resistant strains that South Carolina's peach orchards and strawberry farms have created effects me. In order to control brown rot on peaches, I have to spray at least two fungicides with different modes of action, either in a tank mix or rotated. I quit growing strawberries due to the difficulty in controlling botrytis that's resistant to almost everything available. Topsin(thiophanate methyl) used to be a super fungicide back in the 1970s. By the 1980s it was worthless on brown rot and botrytis. Quadris(azoxtstrobin) would control virtually everything in the 1990s. Within a few years there was widespread resistance. It only takes one or two hardhead farmers with a lot of acreage to cut their application rates or refuse to rotate fungicides to create a monster. Then they would blame the fungicide manufacturers instead of themselves. Fungicide efficacy trials have shown that applying some fungicides will actually increase the amount of disease compared to the unsprayed controls. Those fungicides only kill the weak, susceptible strains but allow the stronger and faster growing strains to spread like wildfire.
Deluxestogie Grow Log 2021
- Thread starter deluxestogie
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Clatsopnehalem
Well-Known Member
have you tried using trichoderma to rid your garden of parasitic fungi? Trichoderma mediates fungal populationsit’s basically a cannabal cus it to is a fungusbut it aids in plant growth rather than pray on it.
The two on the extreme right were cut and hung yesterday. At least two or three fully cured leaves have been removed from each of the others.
Bob
Only 19 tobacco plants left standing in the garden (plus 3 more by the front porch). I stalk-cut 38 plants today (Corojo 99 and Olor), and hung them in the shed. In the heat, this required 4 sessions, with a break for rest and water in between. By the time I finished, at 7:00 pm, the temp had dropped to 80°F in the shade. (Housing the stalks was like repeatedly carrying two 7½ pound barbells between the nearest bed in the photo to that little white shed in the back. Seems easy at first.)
This is the leaf that I previously primed from the bottom of most of the plants.
The hanging stalks don't look like all that much from my eye level.
Holding the camera at arms length above my head, I get this perspective.
Bob
Bob
Clatsopnehalem
Well-Known Member
What kinda averages do you see weight wise with corojo 99? More or less than 5 oz?
I have not weighed most of my cured tobacco for years now. Corojo 99 has been my most productive variety, and I would guess it is yielding at least ½ pound of cured leaf. Some years, the Piloto Cubano yields even more. I think Corojo 99's high yield is due to its columnar profile, with the upper leaf often as large as the bottom leaf.
Bob
Bob
Clatsopnehalem
Well-Known Member
It’s a gorgeous plant I think my family wants me to grow it and I’ve been all excited to grow other varieties but I’m starting to think we should throw the corojo 99 in the line up for next spring planting. What kind of flavors do you see in the piloto cubano and the corojo 99? We’re new to cigars but love them last cigar I smoked had a spicyness to it with a really fresh kick of floral smells to the room almost herby I don’t know how to explain it yet but that’s my favorite so far
I won't try to invent a description for tobacco flavors. The Corojo 99 seed (thanks to a dedicated forum member who toured the fields) originated from the Robaina plantation in Cuba's Vuelta Abajo just a few years ago. It's the real deal. The Piloto Cubano (thanks to @ChinaVoodoo) is from Puerto Rico. @skychaser, who owns Northwood Seeds in Washington state, does have Corojo 99 seed, but you have to ask for it. I'm not sure about Piloto Cubano.
Bob
Bob
skychaser
Well-Known Member
I have them both.
Clatsopnehalem
Well-Known Member
I’d love to purchase some when I get paid next. There amazing
Bob
I use an egg incubator to germinate finicky seeds
Today, I began germination for 5 of my 7 tobacco varieties. The other two are in the mail.
The cups are 8 ounce Ball freezer jars. (I believe they don't make them like this any longer, since the thermal expansion/contraction of the two different plastics meant that they were prone to having the lids popping open unexpectedly, when handled at freezer temps.) I fill the cups with my seedling soil mix, add ¼ cup of water, then sprinkle seed onto the soil surface. They are now resting on a seedling heat mat. The lids will remain closed until after germination, at which point, I will leave the lids ajar.
Both the lids and the cups are labeled.
Bob
I have read about trichoderma and have read some of the efficacy trials on it. The only trials on peaches were for post harvest fruit rots and leaf curl. One of the studies claimed that some chemical fungicides neutralize trichoderma. In order to successfully grow peaches in my climate, I have to control black knot, leaf curl, shothole, brown rot, anthracnose rot, etc. If I find any trials where trichomerma, alone or in combination with compatible fungicides, is effective on those diseases in the field, I will use it.
Even with the resistant funguses, I have no problem controlling them with chemical fungicides because I rotate with several different fungicides according to the local university's pest management guidelines for commercial orchards. Their recommendations are for resistance management.
Eggs hatch at a little over 100°F, which is a bit too high for tobacco seed germination. 85-95°F is optimal. I assume you can set a specific incubator temp. Anything over about 65 usually works, though it may take an extra week.
Bob
ChinaVoodoo
Moderator
What's the body temperature of a chicken?
Oldfella
Well-Known Member
the adult chicken the variability is between 105°F and 107°F (40.6° and 41.7°C)
That's gotta be right, Google said so. What's the plan, get the chicken to hatch the seeds?
Might work.
Oldfella
That's gotta be right, Google said so. What's the plan, get the chicken to hatch the seeds?
Might work. Oldfella
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Mine has a variable thermostat that can be set from about 70-110. It also has humidity readout which is helpful germinating surface sown seed like tobacco and lettuce. There are grooves in the bottom you can add water if needed to control the humidity.
I used it to germinate some old vegetable seeds my Father-in-law had in his freezer. Some of those seeds were 30 years old.
I paid less than $40 for mine. I also hatch eggs with it too. LOL
This afternoon, I survived a severe thunderdrizzle. My NOAA emergency weather radio sounded an alarm. I shut down my computer. With wind gusts up to at least 50 mph, and thunder clapping all around, it kind of drizzled for nearly an hour. I sat on my front porch, smoking a stogie, awaiting a deluge. The accumulation was not even enough to drip off a leaf. It all just evaporated away. It did manage to drop the temperature from 88°F down to 72°F. Of course, the temp rose again, as soon as the drizzlenado passed.
Bob
Bob
Today's task, in the 92°F heat, was to stalk-cut and hang eight (count them, eight entire) MD 609 plants. Remaining in the garden are 8 NB-11 mystery plants [Frankly, I think the butler did it with the candlestick in a New Brunswick parlor.] , which I will allow to yellow (maybe), and 3 orphan MD 609 that need a bit more time to graduate. Of course, there are the porch plant posers: two semi-hemi-demi-shade-grown Little Dutch, and a Folger's Corojo 99, but they are mostly there for the hummingbirds to fight over. [Hummingbirds, beautiful though they may be, are the chihuahuas of the bird world--tiny and mean.]
Bob
Bob
I'm finally beginning to see some convincing yellowing of the NB11.
The three orphans were topped before the upper stalk had elongated. My hope had been to accelerate their maturation. But all those tiny, upper leaves are not doing much.
Bob
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