My first post, and the last 2 hours of my life spent reading this thread and taking notes. I'm glad I found this, and really appreciate all of you 'scientists' who have contributed to this info. This is my 3rd year attempting to grow/cure tobacco. The growing is the easy part - the curing, along with the myriad of conflicting online info, different definitions, different methods, different climates, makes for some confusing results. I'm in the UK - the first year, I hung my small crop in the shed in September, and woke up to see the entire thing attacked by mold practically overnight. Experiment over. Last year I found a site from the UK that does small scale 'curing' by using a seed propagator and wrapping the leaves in towels to color cure. This worked moderately well if you have a very small crop and loads of towels. After yellowing, however, instructions seemed to falter, and my crop was (to this day) pretty harsh and unsmokable on its own. In the meantime, I had still been scouring the internet, and had come across a number of references to 'Bob's crock pot kiln', which today led me to the 'Cozy Can'. Hopefully, this ties in with my current situation, as my chest freezer has recently bit the dust, and is sitting in the shed, hoping for a new future. And I have about 100 plants growing (and have just erected a fairly cheap polytunnel to accommodate them) which will need to be processed in some way. So, after this diatribe, and thankful that this thread is still going some years after its inception, a number of questions: Presumably a chest freezer will work with the Cozy Can method?? The freezer is insulated, etc. For those posts where a crock pot is being used during the yellowing stage, is it being run without water?? What exactly (other than for seeing temperature) is the purpose of the water heater thermostat? I understand the temperature bit, but don't understand how it affects the power of the crock pot (for example, the crock pot is on low pumping out 120F, then with the thermostat adjusted, crock pot still on low, pumping out 155F, etc). Is it basically being used as a rheostat, and can a rheostat (or light dimmer) be used in its place? Or better yet, a variable transformer??? The 'towel' method is horribly work intensive - certainly being able to flue cure would be far better for the (hopefully) larger crop that I will have. Thanks for any info you can provide!!!