deluxestogie's Trash Can Cozy Flue-cure Chamber
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Bex
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Ah, thanks. A good link to bookmark. I can use this to check my calculations....I already have a headache from all the math.
Bex
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Just as an aside to any UK members who are doing this set up, particularly those running 220V. We wired the crockpot up today, a bit differently. In the UK, you can open the plugs and wire up the pins, which you can't often do in the States. Because of the higher voltage here, we wired into the neutral, rather than the live wire. The neutral wire in the plug was disconnected from the pin in the socket, and instead the pin was connected to a new wire which looped out about 5 feet, and then came back again to the socket. This new wire was then wired into the neutral pin. The new wire was then cut at the middle of that loop, and that's where the thermostat was wired in. It has taken my freezer, unvented, about 75 minutes to go from 60F to 95F. So far, the thermostat seems to run about 2F hotter than the thermometer indicates. Sadly, my thermostat is something like what you would have on a stove - a dial that you rotate, that's 11F increments (it's actually in celsius...so 5C increments, actually, 30C, 35C, etc.). It was the only 220v thing I could find over here that went from 30C to over 80C (86 to 176F). I have the probes for the thermostat and the thermometer directly above the crockpot, within an inch of two of the top of it, as that should be the area of the freezer that is the warmest. I imagine that it is better to be on the cooler side of the temperatures given here (ie, somewhere between 93F - 100F) rather than having the area around the crockpot go over that 'dreaded' 104F threshold. Thus far, the freezer seems to be working ok - it was lovely and warm inside. I will now fashion a rack for holding the leaves, and sometime next week will hopefully do my first run with leaves. If this works (and I don't see why it shouldn't), I shall be forever indebted to deluxstogie for posting this thread, and making this process pretty doable for me!!
In the US, most electrical service comes into homes as 220v, 3 wire. One wire is a ground, at a nominal zero volts. Each of the other two (hot wires) cycle between +110v and -110v, but the two are in opposite phases, so wiring between the two hot wires provides 220v AC, while the 110v outlets are serviced by circuit breakers that tap either one of the two hot wires and a ground.
It seems that you have done the same thing that the 110v circuit breakers do in the US.
A difference is that European electrical service cycles at 50 cycles per second, whereas US cycles at 60 cycles per second. This does make a difference in many electronic devices, but doesn't seem to be a problem with heaters and incandescent lights.
Bob
It seems that you have done the same thing that the 110v circuit breakers do in the US.
A difference is that European electrical service cycles at 50 cycles per second, whereas US cycles at 60 cycles per second. This does make a difference in many electronic devices, but doesn't seem to be a problem with heaters and incandescent lights.
Bob
Bex
Well-Known Member
It certainly made a difference in the old reel-to-reel I brought over here, where everything I had recorded was suddenly 20% slower. Really annoying.
Anyway, I have finished my 'construction', and am going to start my first run, using the info from this thread, tomorrow. Sadly, as the growing season here is short and horrible, I probably have only a few leaves thus far that are really mature enough. I wonder how this affects the humidity in the container, if there are possibly not enough leaves to maintain it properly. We'll see! And while I certainly don't want to 'edit' the Master's schedule, I wonder about these 8 hour increments....when do you sleep? I am hoping that perhaps this will work with 12 hour increments. Maybe? I will start my own thread (possibly indicating my failure in all) if I can ever figure out how to insert photos in the midst of my text, rather than having them all bunched together in the bottom of the post......
Bex
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I've been struggling to make smokable tobacco for about 4 years now...all a total failure. If this works, I will send you my first born....
Just relax, keep the temp below ~100ºF until the leaf is mostly yellow (not entirely yellow), then let her rip (ramp). By this time next week, you'll be smoking flue-cured tobacco.
Bob
Bob
DGBAMA
Well-Known Member
I only get to adjust mine about every 12 hrs. you will be fine. The hard part is being patient for the yellowing. Once it is set up, you pretty much leave it alone and don't change a thing for 2-3 days (I have to RESIST the urge to adjust constantly) until the leaf colors. After that, give some venting and bump the temp a couple times a day and you will have good results, even if it comes out brown instead of yellow.I've been struggling to make smokable tobacco for about 4 years now...all a total failure. If this works, I will send you my first born....
Brown Thumb
Well-Known Member
Like Bob says, don't try for all yellow the little green left in the ribs will go away.
I Tried for all yellow last yr. it just Dont Work. It Goes brown. Correct me if I am wrong Guys.
Brown Thumb
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Sorry to intrude Bob on your log but I don't think pics have been posted if they have I Apoligize.
I had a problem with this yellowing term also.
I had a problem with this yellowing term also.
Great photos. Thanks.
Last week, my flue-cure chamber was empty, and my VA Bright looked like it needed a few more days to ripen. Hanging in the shed was a string of Cyprus Oriental mw that was destined for sun-curing, but it had been raining for days, and the forecast was for several more days of rain. I placed the already yellowed string of Oriental into the empty Cozy Can, skipped the entire yellowing phase, and just went directly into wilting and ramping the temp. With its very thin stems, I allowed only 12 hours for stem kill.
Those faint hints of green in the flue-cured leaf will vanish over the next week.
Bob
Last week, my flue-cure chamber was empty, and my VA Bright looked like it needed a few more days to ripen. Hanging in the shed was a string of Cyprus Oriental mw that was destined for sun-curing, but it had been raining for days, and the forecast was for several more days of rain. I placed the already yellowed string of Oriental into the empty Cozy Can, skipped the entire yellowing phase, and just went directly into wilting and ramping the temp. With its very thin stems, I allowed only 12 hours for stem kill.
Those faint hints of green in the flue-cured leaf will vanish over the next week.
Bob
DGBAMA
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the pics Bob. Gives confidence in the theory. BT and I both have loaded chambers running and a second batch yellowing naturally, with the idea of moving the already mostly yellow batch to the chamber ready to wilt when the current run is done.
By the way, that "before" photo of the Cyprus Oriental mw shows the exact degree of yellowing I try to achieve, before hanging Oriental leaf out for sun-curing. The same would probably work for sun-curing Virginias.
Bob
Bob
Bex
Well-Known Member
I had to laugh when I read this. I understand this completely. I'm really sorry adding to this incredible thread - perhaps I should start a post with questions - let me know. But I do have one or two. I have started my process this morning. The thermostat I am using is something akin to what would be on an oven - with increments of 10F between markings. A bit of a project to get the temps to stabilize at around 95/96F, but finally done. My main question here is the actual amount of venting that was done with the strategically placed clothes pin - I have the freezer lid vented at about 1/2 inch or so across the front of the (top loading) door, which would be about 32 inches long. Enough? Too much?
I only have about 15 leaves that are anywhere near ready - but was impatient to try this, so that's all that's in the chamber. I noticed that when loading it up, the temp inside dropped from 95F to about 72F, but has come back to 95F in about 30 minutes. I am running up to the shed to check about every 15 minutes, like a depraved idiot. I'm sure that the 'thrill' will wear off soon - but in the meantime, I'm getting plenty of exercise.
I also read here that the 'flue curing season' is only about 5 weeks or so. Can someone advise why? Of course, I don't have 100's of plants, but if the process takes a week, why can you not remove lower leaves, flue cure them, one week later the next 'tier' goes in, and this continues for more than 5 weeks??
I also imagine that the number of leaves that you put in the chamber will affect how the chamber responds with, perhaps not heat, but certainly humidity - so would venting have to be changed somewhat to accommodate a larger number of leaves??
I was studying that Ranco temperature controller that has been talked about on the forum (not available in Europe, by the way, but apparently will work off of 240v). One site (I believe beer making or something) was discussing how a thermostat actually works, ie, kind of playing 'catch up' to the temps, so that, for example, you set the thermostat for 95F, and when the temp reaches that, the thermostat shuts off, and will not come on again perhaps for 3 or 4 degrees - so it comes back on at, say, 92F, heats up again to 95F, etc. So, in essence, the temp you are really getting is not 95F at all, but a few degrees lower. I know that with this '1800's' curing system, extremely exact temps aren't necessary, but, ignorantly, I didn't realize that's how thermostats actually work.....
And thanks for the photos, too, of the colors of the leaves that should be looked for, in the yellowing phase. Without those photos, I most probably would have gone for more yellow (or all yellow) in the leaves, so it's good to know that this is the level you are looking for in the yellowing stage. The climate here in NW Ireland is weird, moderate, windy and rainy, so doing anything with tobacco (like air or sun curing) is totally out of the question. I am really hopeful that this procedure will work!! Currently, this particular thread is like my Bible - I think I practically have it memorized, I've read it so many times.....
leverhead
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The length of the flue-curing season depends on how fast your leaves ripen. The number of runs depends on how many leaves are left on the plant after topping and how many leaves you pick off the plant at a time.
When using a temperature controller like the RANCO, it reaches the set point and shuts off the power to the heat source. The heat source is still hot and it drives the temperature up, overshooting the set point by up to several degrees, depending on how big your heat source is compared to you chamber. I've used the RANCO controller, you can set the spread between on and off from very large down to one degree.
This is like anything else. By the end of the season, you'll be able to watch an entire TV show without running out to check everything.
When using a temperature controller like the RANCO, it reaches the set point and shuts off the power to the heat source. The heat source is still hot and it drives the temperature up, overshooting the set point by up to several degrees, depending on how big your heat source is compared to you chamber. I've used the RANCO controller, you can set the spread between on and off from very large down to one degree.
This is like anything else. By the end of the season, you'll be able to watch an entire TV show without running out to check everything.
Bex
Well-Known Member
I'm rolling. And glad that I'm not the only one who has been neurotically compelled to check this every 10 minutes. My flue chamber has been on, with the temperature stabilized, since noon. I actually had to leave the house - I was running up to the shed so often, looking to see if the temperature was ok. The thermostat I got seems somewhat accurate - I have it set at 35C (95F) and the little digital thermometer is reading the same temp. Both of them have probes - the thermostat's probe hangs about an inch above the crock pot - this way I know that maximum temp that is in the chamber. The thermometer is about an inch or so above that. I came home after being away for 5 hours - temp still stabilized, but I didn't want to open the freezer any more than it's currently vented. The last time I did that the temp dropped like a rock within seconds. I took out my borescope and poked it through the vent - while I am unable to manipulate the scope very well through the vent, nor really focus on anything well, I can see color. The leaves have already begun to turn a lighter green than they were when the originally went in. Hopefully this is a good thing, and the process is not moving too fast.
Edit: And thanks for the explanation about the 5 weeks, etc.!!
Welcome Bex. Good luck with your yellow color.
Bex
Well-Known Member
Ah, thanks, Rainmax - will be trying again!! Definitely need to get more used to this process and terminology.
I have a couple of questions pertaining to this post.
1. First, the seedmats - I have a friend of mine that is attempting the flue curing as well...he seems to think however, that the seed mats were 'important' at the beginning of this process - I felt that they were only necessary as the thermostat being used couldn't regulate below 120F, and they naturally heated to 95F, so no thermostat regulation was needed with them. Is there anything else that the seed mats contribute? If the thermostat had been able to regulate to 95F, would you not just have used the crockpot for the entire process??
2. Regarding Brown Thumb's photo above - I found that yellow leaves with the greeny veins, like the photo on the left, had a much more pronounced green hue to them on the back side of the leaf, and that the leaves that were that color when I raised the temp to the leaf drying stage, basically stayed that way, with the greenish bits in them. So is it correct to also think that the back side of the leaves may take a bit longer to yellow, and that you should base your determination to ramp up the temps based on what the back of the leaf looks like??
I have a couple of questions pertaining to this post.
1. First, the seedmats - I have a friend of mine that is attempting the flue curing as well...he seems to think however, that the seed mats were 'important' at the beginning of this process - I felt that they were only necessary as the thermostat being used couldn't regulate below 120F, and they naturally heated to 95F, so no thermostat regulation was needed with them. Is there anything else that the seed mats contribute? If the thermostat had been able to regulate to 95F, would you not just have used the crockpot for the entire process??
2. Regarding Brown Thumb's photo above - I found that yellow leaves with the greeny veins, like the photo on the left, had a much more pronounced green hue to them on the back side of the leaf, and that the leaves that were that color when I raised the temp to the leaf drying stage, basically stayed that way, with the greenish bits in them. So is it correct to also think that the back side of the leaves may take a bit longer to yellow, and that you should base your determination to ramp up the temps based on what the back of the leaf looks like??
You are correct. If my 180ºF thermostat went down to 90ºF, then I would not fuss with the seedling mats. (Each adds 17 watts of heating. There is no regulation of what temp that equates to.)
The point at which you launch out of the yellowing phase is just a gestalt. You've just got to acquire a sense of the right timing, based on your own observations.
Bob
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