finally got my tiller '' issues took care of ''

[Chicken]

Right here is as good a place as any.

Bob

allright.... LETS DO IT;

..this is what it looks like with just a good cleaning,

..

then i painted. with red implement colour... and the motor with '' kubota '' orange.

i have some grey for the rims. but im not doing that till i get new tires. and have the whole rim exposed.

the new tractor.. just needs one more coat

..

i have 2 new belts for it... thats tomorrows project

then comes tires... AND NEW DECALS...

 

[kullas]

That looks nice

 

[Chicken]

That looks nice

i dont know,,,

i may have to get a brighter orange... it kind of blends in with the red,, to where you cant distinguish the 2 different colours,

do you agree,,, anyone who looks at the fresh painted pic's.

is the orange and the red look like 1 colour,?????

 

[deluxestogie]

The colors are close. Unless you plan on taking it out dancing, I'd just be satisfied with how it looks now.

Bob

 

[Brown Thumb]

Looks Good, It's only going to play in the Dirt.
your neighbor friend will be impressed.

 

[Chicken]

well i changed up on the colours, i used the implement red as a primer coat and went with bright rustoleum red as the troy bilt colours, and it looks good,

i got the 2 new belts. gonna install them later today,

i got a tire that wont hold air. but im gonna test everything before going forward with the next step. after installing the belts. im gonna run it and make sure i have a 100% good till at maximum depth.

then will come '' new '' ag tires... followed by new tiller tines,

and then this thing will be re-born 1974 beast..

............................................................................................................

i did put a fuel shut-off valve and a fuel filter on it,

pic's coming this weekend,

 

[rustycase]

Nice looking tiller. Our Horse is my go-to machine. Far better than Ariens Rocket and a buncha others... rc

 

[Chicken]

i got started on the rims.. getting them sanded and repainted. with rustoleum grey... i also decided to go with the ruatoleum red for the finished product.. in the pic's there is a lot of the '' implement red '' still on it. im using it for a base coat.

next step is ordering the new tires, and decals. and im sure that will take a while to be delivered,

 

[charlie G.]

She almost looks good enough to run in the 4th of July parade.
It looks better then my 5yr old lawn mower.

 

[Jitterbugdude]

I guess the most important question is: How's the engine and trans? Mine started spurting gas up through the carb. A rebuild kit was less than $10.00. You might want to inspect the clutch for wear. They are still easy enough to obtain. But with something that old there's going to come a time when parts will be hard to get for it. Might want to consider stocking up on parts now while you can.

 

[Chicken]

The engine is strong..i put some new tractor supply brand belts on it..they didnt fix the slip problem..and actually looked a hair bigger than the ones i took off...i did read where a guy said that only factory belts are the perfect size..and that some aftermarket belts wont work.??

Im gonna tighten the belts up today and see what happens...if no sucess.then ill order troy bilt belts and see what happens..

 

[rustycase]

Chicken, I'm a real skinflint and it would cause me pain to purchase belts direct from a manufacturer!

My horse tiller had a dead kohler on it when I got it. $85 in parts to replace the busted rod, doing the labor myself. Too much for me.
I replaced the 8hp with a 4hp honda gc160 and never looked back.
Plenty of power for tilling my hard compacted dirt. Yes, it does take a number of successive passes, but so does anything else that is not tractor mounted.

I switched over to a smaller motor sheave, to compensate for less power. A single row sheave. And no slippage. Belts from the local true value store, $8.

Does your model tiller lift the engine to tighten the belts? With a cam thingy where the clutch lever engages down low? That cam is adjustable... u know that, right? and do you lift up on the long lever to engage the outside of the rubber banded sheave for reverse?
Or do you have the newer model that uses a movable idler to put tension on the drive belts ?

What size is printed on the old, and new belts?

It's most likely the factory belts could perform better, but I don't want to float a bank loan for a few hours working time each year.

I could send you pics of my cam adjuster if you need... the darned bolt for it is on the front side of the handle mounting bracket, facing the motor, recessed, and difficult to work with. Just a very little bit of up/down movement makes a real difference when it gets to the belts.... lol and I have run mine considerably Below where it should be, to accommodate a belt I had bought that was a tad too long...

Good luck
rc

 

[rustycase]

I'll dump this link in your thread, Chicken. Hope you don't mind. It's kinda fun, for people like me who like machines.
This, is a reciprocating spader.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Db4fWUwilXI
I'd like to have one just to say Yah, I got one a those!
rc

 

[rustycase]

Sry... the cam adjuster thingy is behind the handlebar mount, which is what gets in the way when you're trying to adjust it... a 3/8 drive universal on a ratchet might work ok once it's loose. rc

 

[Chicken]

Sry... the cam adjuster thingy is behind the handlebar mount, which is what gets in the way when you're trying to adjust it... a 3/8 drive universal on a ratchet might work ok once it's loose. rc

i know the part that your speaking of... i havent messed with it yet..or looked at the clutch sleeve under it. or maybe its in the rear drive case,? i was looking at a exploded view of it,

i know the belts are too big. i was warned on another site of using aftermarket belts. but a guy on that site says he uses napa belts with no problems.

my cam adjustment bolt the metal that slides to adjust the clutch. the bottom that catches the cam was broke a while back, and a strip of weld bead was put on it, to catch and hold the cam, the guy i got it from told me he had to keep pressure on the rod. to keep everything engaged,

i did find one of these adjuster plates on e-bay...among a lot more parts. my uncle actually has one of these tillers disassembled. [ hes a junk horder ] but will he let me get it all at a descent price is another question,

i been looking at a bumper guard for it,,, i will definatlly be placing one of them on it... found all the decals..

and im thinking of putting a '' old school '' glass bowl type fuel filter on it. since its old also.. make it look and use old equipment, id have to brace the back of the bowl. so it dont hit the motor and break.

and the muffler.......well i have some radical ideas about that... i want to extend it upwards. and put a flap on the top of it...... like you see on some older model semi truck exaust.... with the pipe going up. and a flapper on the top just a bouncing away... to keep the water out when the engine is off.

 

[rustycase]

I'll need to take some pictures of mine so you can tell if we got the same setup. I'll post 'em in a few days...
Mine has a small steel roller that runs up against the slope of the cam ramp, then drops down over the bottom edge of it to keep it in go-gear.
No clutch at all on mine. The belts are loose, or being tightened up for Go, by lifting the cast iron motor bracket that slides up and down along two steel rods which go through the side of the case. Well, I guess reverse engagement could be called a clutch, because it had a rubber friction strip on the edge of the sheave that engaged the front pulley on the tiller when you lifted up the big long Go-lever. I took that off when I re-powered with an engine that has a smaller output shaft.
...probably could have done like when I repowered the ariens rocket... I made a sleeve, then sliced it for the key and used a longer set screw for the keyway.
imo, the bolo tines are the best part about a Horse, and the weight of the cast iron. The axle bearings and especially the seals are the biggest problem. Soon as the bearings wear, they knock out the seals. I've got rags wire-tied around my axles to sop up the oil that leaks out.
Well, good luck
rc

 

[Chicken]

I'll need to take some pictures of mine so you can tell if we got the same setup. I'll post 'em in a few days...
Mine has a small steel roller that runs up against the slope of the cam ramp, then drops down over the bottom edge of it to keep it in go-gear.
No clutch at all on mine. The belts are loose, or being tightened up for Go, by lifting the cast iron motor bracket that slides up and down along two steel rods which go through the side of the case. Well, I guess reverse engagement could be called a clutch, because it had a rubber friction strip on the edge of the sheave that engaged the front pulley on the tiller when you lifted up the big long Go-lever. I took that off when I re-powered with an engine that has a smaller output shaft.
...probably could have done like when I repowered the ariens rocket... I made a sleeve, then sliced it for the key and used a longer set screw for the keyway.
imo, the bolo tines are the best part about a Horse, and the weight of the cast iron. The axle bearings and especially the seals are the biggest problem. Soon as the bearings wear, they knock out the seals. I've got rags wire-tied around my axles to sop up the oil that leaks out.
Well, good luck
rc

sounds like we got the same thing.. mine is setup exactlly as you described,

i got the 22'' belt because that was the size listed. but i also found 21 5/8 '' and 21 3/4 '' belts both for the same tiller,??????

i run it yesterday and as long as i had IMMENSE pressure on the tine engagement rod it worked fine. but that aint how its suppose to work,

im gonna get the 5/8 size belt... and i believe that will solve all my problems, and have the machine working the way its suppose to.

 

[rustycase]

Tine engagement... all my remote/bar mounted controls are long gone... if I need to use transport mode, I flip a lever on the left side of the main tranny case, for engaged, or not. Actually, it's got notches on it's bracket.

Here's pics of mine. I'll try to do multiple shots.


This shows the roller on the ramp, in the idle, or No-go position. The belt is loose, here.


This shows the steel roller now positioned down off the ramp, which catches it, for the Go position. The springs on the goofy mechanism prevent it from popping back out. Well, they are supposed to. Mine now has extra springs added, and I have hung a weight on the end of the long control lever, to keep it from popping out. lol
If you notice, my belt adjustment ramp is way down as far as it will possibly go before the bolt comes off the bracket it sets on...


This shows the lower end of the long handled lever that lifts the engine, to tighten the belt, and the steel rod the engine mounting assembly rides up and down on.

Antiquated old design, but very repairable !

A wider profile belt should help you.
If you run too narrow of a belt, you must tighten it too much, so it is actually bearing on the smallest part of the bottom of the V. \_/
A proper sized belt will run on the long sides of the V, giving it more, and better friction bearing surface. |\\_//|

Hope that does you some good
rc

 

[Chicken]

Yep..we got the same machine...

Would you like to know what year and month it was made.?

If so look at the lip beside the right tire...and give me the #'s you find there..and ill look it up for you.

 

[rustycase]

Yah, that would be good to know... even rode hard and put up wet, for many years, it's a far better tiller than any of my others.

Can you look up when it's gonna die?
If I knew that I would start looking for a used BCS. I heard they got all gear drive, and better seals than the troybuilt. I'd try one if this Horse gives up.
Best
rc