picked up an older Troy-Bilt tiller this morning

[Chicken]

if your gonna put that motor in the corner and forget about it.... i'll buy that gas tank from you if your intrested,,,

im making mine as old school as possible. and i have a black plastic standard tank. but i plan on upgrading that.. im going with the old school glass bowl fuel filter. and putting a rain cap on my exaust just like a old farm tractor has,

 

[DrBob]

I have a 1977 troy built pony that I got from my dad about 10 years ago that really needs an engine overhaul. I had considered a harbor freight engine but my engine is a 5 hp dual shaft engine, the secondary output shaft turns counterclockwise I believe 1/2 speed and is the reverse drive for the tiller and the complications of making the reverse work with a single output engine are not worth the effort. Overhauling the engine would probably cost a couple hundred bucks so I have gone the route of borrowing a tiller from my neighbor for the spring tilling tasks which only take an hour or so and I do all the rest of my tilling with a mini tiller during the summer.
I wouldn't blink once and buy that harbor freight engine if it would have fit.

 

[DrBob]

I have a 1977 troy built pony that I got from my dad about 10 years ago that really needs an engine overhaul. I had considered a harbor freight engine but my engine is a 5 hp dual shaft engine, the secondary output shaft turns counterclockwise I believe 1/2 speed and is the reverse drive for the tiller and the complications of making the reverse work with a single output engine are not worth the effort. Overhauling the engine would probably cost a couple hundred bucks so I have gone the route of borrowing a tiller from my neighbor for the spring tilling tasks which only take an hour or so and I do all the rest of my tilling with a mini tiller during the summer.
I wouldn't blink once and buy that harbor freight engine if it would have fit.

 

[DrBob]

I have a 1977 troy built pony that I got from my dad about 10 years ago that really needs an engine overhaul. I had considered a harbor freight engine but my engine is a 5 hp dual shaft engine, the secondary output shaft turns counterclockwise I believe 1/2 speed and is the reverse drive for the tiller and the complications of making the reverse work with a single output engine are not worth the effort. Overhauling the engine would probably cost a couple hundred bucks so I have gone the route of borrowing a tiller from my neighbor for the spring tilling tasks which only take an hour or so and I do all the rest of my tilling with a mini tiller during the summer.
I wouldn't blink once and buy that harbor freight engine if it would have fit.

 

[Smokin Harley]

if your gonna put that motor in the corner and forget about it.... i'll buy that gas tank from you if your intrested,,,

im making mine as old school as possible. and i have a black plastic standard tank. but i plan on upgrading that.. im going with the old school glass bowl fuel filter. and putting a rain cap on my exaust just like a old farm tractor has,

Tell you what Chicken, let me get this re-power done and I'll see what parts I have leftover . I may make you a good deal on not only the tank, but the block(and guts usable),carb, starter and battery platform,etc...if you're interested in any of/all that. shipping would be an issue if you need the block. My step sons dad is a independent trucker and I'd hand it all to him if he knew he was going to be anywhere near you. He doesn't get down your way often...and he likes cigars. I'm going to HF this morning as soon as they open -9 am I think...If I can't get it bolted on and going this afternoon(which shouldn't be a problem), wifes working tomorrow so I'll have all day tomorrow to putz around with it. I hope to have it going by tomorrow sometime. New tines will have to wait for next year . Laid off right now and the income is low and fixed .

If this all works out I may be looking for a front bumper (I saw on that Yahoo site there were some rare front dozer blades for these too) for it if theres one available to fit it.

 

[Chicken]

Id only be intreted in the tank...if you get the h.f. motor make sure you break it in properlly..i done destroyed one by not doing it properlly...but my 2'nd motor i broke in and its doing great..

I also need a bumper guard..but im gonna build mine.they are pricey for what they are...i got acess to a torch to bend the metal...yes they do have a dozer blade for them...if i needed one id proablly build that also.i think the blade hooks up to the bumper guard...

They also make a log splitting attachment but its for newer models with a p.t.o. which me and you dont have...my parts horse has a p.t.o.... But i dont forsee it coming back to life.

 

[Smokin Harley]

ok, what is the procedure to break in a Predator motor ?

 

[Chicken]

I let mine idle for 15 min...shut it down long enough to completelly.cool down..and repeated this..for a whole week...then gave it a little more throttle...then changed the oil..and did it again for 3 more days....then used it in the garden...and after 4 hours of running changed the oil again..

Then i throttled it up and its been fine..

 

[Smokin Harley]

ok, i'll do that, thank you...
hey guess what . Since I had to make 2 trips to the dealership for my truck tailgate support cables they did my oil change on the house . So far so good, right after that I went right to Harbor Freight for the Predator . They also had a flyer out for click type torque wrenches "your choice for $11.99" so I got myself a 1/2" one . then they had a 6 pc set of black square handled screwdrivers FREE (I can't pass up FREE anything even if I do already have 2 sets )and then I got myself a 3/8" speedwrench and a set of quick disconnect ratchet extensions and put down a 20% off super-coupon for the extension set. Couldn't use it on the motor but I made out good this morning. Now going to Home Depot to get the throttle cable and 5/16"-24 shaft bolt once I find out what length I need. Today is going great and its Friday.

 

[Smokin Harley]

Started first pull, still have to find a replacement throttle cable but it works great right now. Ran it 15 minutes for first part of chickens break in period,tomorrow will run it again then change oil. Then put her through her paces in the back 40(x 30). Very pleased with the bolt up process if anyone does this to theirs i had to get a 1 1/2"x 5/16"-24 bolt grade 5,for the pulley shaft.

 

[rustycase]

Well ****! Wish I would have checked in a few days earlier, SH...
I could have sent you my 20% off coupon that came via email.
You won't need a hand throttle for the predator. Most tractor work is done at a set throttle speed, and when you do stop, lifting the long lifter lever which acts as a clutch by dis-engaging the belt drive, it's no biggie to step to the front and move the lever to a slower speed if you don't just shut it off.
...Mine has been trouble free and it gets to care or special attention...
Fine machine you gathered up. With the re-power expense, that's a fair price for one.
Best
rc

 

[Knucklehead]

Fantastic looking machine. I agree with Chicken, change all the lubricants (trans, drive axle, etc) and be sure to grease every zerk fitting on it. If some are broken or won't take grease, replace them. Lubricants are the life blood of any machine. Proper break in is crucial. Many sources recommend a different oil for break in:

Briggs and Stratton Break In Procedure: http://www.briggsandstratton.com/eu...recommended-break-in-procedures-for-my-engine

Did the new engine come with any paperwork, such as User's Guide, etc? Look for recommendations there.

 

[Smokin Harley]

Well ****! Wish I would have checked in a few days earlier, SH...
I could have sent you my 20% off coupon that came via email.
You won't need a hand throttle for the predator. Most tractor work is done at a set throttle speed, and when you do stop, lifting the long lifter lever which acts as a clutch by dis-engaging the belt drive, it's no biggie to step to the front and move the lever to a slower speed if you don't just shut it off.
...Mine has been trouble free and it gets to care or special attention...
Fine machine you gathered up. With the re-power expense, that's a fair price for one.
Best
rc

I had a 20% coupon, it does not apply(if you read the microscopic print) to Predator Engines.

 

[Smokin Harley]

Hey Knuck, yes the Predator came with a users manual . and although I don't see ANY zerks on the tiller, I will indeed change the gearbox fluid. I do see that I need to change some seals . The guy I bought it from handed me a few seals for the gearbox (tine shafts) but I think there may be 2 there for the axles and maybe a couple more for something else as well. Looks like a simple pull of a cotter pin on either side and the wheel hubs should slide right off. Yesterday while I was idling it , i put it through the gears just to make sure no internals were grinding or locked up...I'll say this , there is no reason whatsoever I should ever put this machine in HIGH gear for transport,unless I build a sulky for it. Hmm, theres an idea for tilling in my retirement days, a couple saddles that hang a small platform onto the axles and a big sprung caster wheel in back for those long days in the field ...it damn near ran away from me. And I think the axle is like a Posi- it doesnt like to steer well.
Ok, so I guess I won't be in a big hurry for a throttle cable but I may fiddle with the existing one today,maybe pull the core cable and get a few kinks out of it and shove it back in.
I've always wanted a Troy-bilt and this one seems to be old (still don't know what model year it is. haven't found the numbers Chicken is referring to,probably covered in paint) but still has many years and acres worth of cultivating left in its life.

 

[Chicken]

be very glad the muffler is pointing away from you.... i got my predator mounted on my front tine tiller. and the muffler blows right in my face..

it will heat you up fast.. im gonna get me a different muffler,, one that points away from me,

how difficult was that engine swap.. in case i have to do it one day,???

ill take a pic of where those numbers are at your looking for,

i put my tiller restoration on hold. till after the holidays.. got to spend that money elsewhere. not to mention i got my son a yamaha 125 dirt bike. that needs a new back rim and tires.. [ damn that back rim is expensive ] 180.00 with a tire. i thought that was high priced till i called some shops. apparantlly thats a good deal.

its really used and been rode hard. but im gonna clean it up real nice and get many new parts. when he gets it ,,it will look real new, he aint getting it till june or july,, around his birthday time, its impossiblle to keep something like that hid. so i showed it to him.

his eyes got real big when i pulled the tarp back. and started it,

 

[Smokin Harley]

engine swap was easy enough. I watched a couple youtubes on it and if youre as mechanically inclined as i think you are . It should be a couple hours or less. Since I hadn't ever taken a Troy-bilt apart ever I had a time trying to figure out where to start and I took the time to clean some of the parts up .Took some PB Blaster a small wire brush about a dozen paper towels and a shop rag to get it all cleaned up . Chased a few threads here and there. These 212cc Predators are pretty much designed to bolt right up to a Troy-bilt .Save the 4 bolts that mount the cast iron belt guard to the side of the case by the shaft. the 3 small machine screws that hold the reverse end plate onto the pulleys of course. I had to buy only one bolt for the output shaft - grade 5 , 5/16"-24 x 1 1/2" long. Its only to keep the belt pulley on the keyed shaft ( I used the old key too but the engine comes with a new one, the old one is longer ) . Depending on the model you have that length of the shaft bolt may change.

 

[rustycase]

SH... it does not apply... if you read the microscopic fine print...

Busted!
Never do. and now it's on the record! lol
I'm a pathological liar and functional illiterate.
Best
rc

 

[Chicken]

our models are the same... allthough made many years apart they didnt change the design for many years,,,,,, did you join that yahoo group?

from all the research i did... the pain in the butt. will come if you ever remove that solid steel mounting thing that the motor and the pullies are hooked to,

the mechanism that goes up and down when engaging the pullies, luckilly i have the 2 solid rods that that thing rides. on... the guy i got mine from is a welder/ machinist and he had issues with one of the rods... so he made 2 of them,,,,, exact duplicates, and i got the m on standby,

im gonna take a pic of where your serial #'s are at so you'll know the exact year that your machine is... it may not be very important.. but if your like me.. you want to know all the info. you can get on your new baby.

 

[Smokin Harley]

I did find and join that Yahoo group but I'm not sure how to navigate it properly. It doesn't work like this forum at all.
I know the solid guide rods you mean...mine were fine, once I figured out how to remove them , slid out slicker than $#!T through a goose and the mount thingy was removed. I didn't think it was too bad, rather ingenious actually. What I want to know is...what is that spring loaded bolt on top of the gear case just behind that solid steel mounting thing? Theres an integral rear-facing tab on the mounting thing that comes down to almost rest atop it. Whats the purpose of the spring? and is there any time when I would need to adjust it? I didn't touch it .
So far I'm still looking around and see no sign of any numbers like you're referring to. All I see is iron casting. I see a (2 inch?)spot about behind the tire but I see no sign of any number or digit stamping there.
Yes, we are quite similar in that aspect. I'm an information junkie( or we wouldn't be in this forum now ,would we?). I like to have owners /parts manuals and shop repair manuals for nearly everything mechanical I happen to own. I'm a bit of a paperwork hoarder.

 

[Chicken]

That spring is what activates the reverse gear..i dont use reverse so i got it adjusted to where it wont engage....and if you ever have to remove it you got to take off that huge metal motor mounting apparatus. I was going to remove mine and install a new bolt in it..so i put a jack directlly under the motor and lifted it till it would go no higher..and still had no room to get it off...i guess at the factory the spring is installed before the motor mount is installed..

And yes that yahoo site is difficult to navigate..ive looked at every thread thats ever been put on there...some good info. On there