Robncars
Well-Known Member
IDK if the fans work but they can be fixed/replaced.
Robcars flue curing thread
- Thread starter Robncars
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Great find and a great deal. Looking forward to your build thread.
ChinaVoodoo
Moderator
That's awesome.
Robncars
Well-Known Member
I want to use this one but its smaller.
But it has a window in the door. I got it for $25. It's cute but man think of being able to watch your progress without opening it up ever.
Maybe perfect the process in this one then move it to the big one.
But it has a window in the door. I got it for $25. It's cute but man think of being able to watch your progress without opening it up ever.
Maybe perfect the process in this one then move it to the big one.
Robncars
Well-Known Member
Should I make a new thread for the build?
No you are in the right place. I wasn‘t paying attention and thought we were still in your Growing in ND thread. I forgot about this one. Lol. My bad.
Robncars
Well-Known Member
Well I got my combi steam oven yesterday. (The one with the window in it). I pulled the steam unit out. It was plugged up pretty bad. I had to rewire it to single phase 220 from 3 phase. Heat and fan work good. I'm going to have to use just 1 element (there are 8). Had 145 F in 30 seconds.
If I fix the steam heater in it it's worth $17k though. What to do.... what to do......
If I fix the steam heater in it it's worth $17k though. What to do.... what to do......
What's $17,000 worth, compared to a good smoke?
Bob
Bob
Robncars
Well-Known Member
I know but have you tried to tell your woman it's worth more as a tobacco kiln than 17k cash.
And I have the 2 door stainless fridge also. I just liked the window so I can see
Robncars
Well-Known Member
Ok so I was going through Amaxb flue curing and he said something about too much air flow. When I kicked in that combi-oven it sucked a piece of paper up instantly. 220v 1/2 hp motor with a 6" squirrel cage fan. I can reduce it to 120v.
Also I may put in a separate heat source for low heat.
Also I may put in a separate heat source for low heat.
Robncars
Well-Known Member
Ok I got the temp control unit. A PID control. Modifying the fan may be a pain but I'll see what I can find for parts. Thinking 120v then put in a dimmer switch. But if the PID works the way it's supposed to I shouldn't need a separate heat source
Use a fan control switch rather than a dimmer switch. A dimmer switch is not designed for the load and could be a fire hazard. I had originally planned to do the same thing until I delved into it a little deeper.
Robncars
Well-Known Member
Use a fan control switch rather than a dimmer switch. A dimmer switch is not designed for the load and could be a fire hazard. I had originally planned to do the same thing until I delved into it a little deeper.
That was another thought. Use a normal 0-3-2-1 fan switch. I believe you can use a rheostat type dimmer switch. Not like a light bulb dimmer switch.
I did get a 2 door SS freezer but I like the window
Robncars
Well-Known Member
Im putting together the fridge. I'll have to get pics soon but here is a good update.
I found an old outdoor breaker panel I hid on myself so I put my controls in there. I have a countertop griddle for a heat source. I still have to put a garden hose connection on the back but that is coming. I cut 4 pieces of wood to the depth of the fridge and notched them so the slats can be set upright. My slats look pretty much the same as Leatherheads if I remember right. The only difference was instead of the front few lathes being short to get them in i decided it was easier to make the center door post removable.
I tested it today and the PID controller doesn't recognize the temp sensor so I'll do a little diagnostics
I found an old outdoor breaker panel I hid on myself so I put my controls in there. I have a countertop griddle for a heat source. I still have to put a garden hose connection on the back but that is coming. I cut 4 pieces of wood to the depth of the fridge and notched them so the slats can be set upright. My slats look pretty much the same as Leatherheads if I remember right. The only difference was instead of the front few lathes being short to get them in i decided it was easier to make the center door post removable.
I tested it today and the PID controller doesn't recognize the temp sensor so I'll do a little diagnostics
Robncars
Well-Known Member
So I got the PID controller working. It was a wiring mix up. The instructions were a little hazy at best.
It held 95.8 for 8 hrs. Im ramping it to 125 now. I only wish I had a 24hr temp graph. So I could see exactly what it was doing while I wasn't looking. But from what I saw it was not moving. And to start it never went over 97 when it was set to 95
It held 95.8 for 8 hrs. Im ramping it to 125 now. I only wish I had a 24hr temp graph. So I could see exactly what it was doing while I wasn't looking. But from what I saw it was not moving. And to start it never went over 97 when it was set to 95
Robncars
Well-Known Member
I have a few leaves in my flue. Im holding temp at 100 according to one side and 92 on the far side. With 99% humidity. After 36 hrs they are just barely starting to yellow. Im going to let it run for another day.
Is there a fan inside?
Bob
Bob
Robncars
Well-Known Member
Yes 4 small fans, they were in the fridge to begin with i just incorporated them in the build
Those fans don't seem to be doing the job. Uneven temps mean uneven flue-cures.
Bob
Bob
Robncars
Well-Known Member
Im thinking its a discrepancy in the thermometers rather than in temp it doesn't seem reasonable temp is off its still mostly empty. And it showed that empty also
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