Thanks, It so happens that I have some Rustica seeds from Victory seeds labeled as "Wild or Sacred Tobacco". I grew some last fall, but ruined them through inexperience. I'll give them another try.If you want a true nicotine hit, grow some N. rustica. Small plants (and a raging hell of suckers), tiny leaves, terrible smell, mild taste.. almost everything advises you to not grow it. But what a nicotine boost it will give to your blend!
I can't magnify the photos on his site, but it does appear that both plants are petiolate. The main reasons I chose it, is because of the advertised low height, yield and high nicotine content. It'll be interesting to see how it turns out.I am curious about your Trabzon 2. Trabzon and Trabzon 2 are listed as different varieties, and have different Pi numbers, but appear to be identical in @skychaser's photos. My Trabzon sun-cured easily. Neither physically resembles a flue-cure variety, from the photos, since their leaves are petiolate.
When growing in containers in the nursery, plants on outside rows, facing sun side wouldn't have root growth on the side that was hot from the sun. One factor in the outside rows being shorter than interior plants. Always used dark pots because it was the industry standard.You should compare the soil temperature between the white buckets and the black buckets at mid-afternoon on a sunny day.
I have no idea, it has a very compact grain right now, but it's still green wood. It's what we always called "water oak". It is a type of oak tree, but I don't know the proper name of it. I just use it when I smoke some meat or fish.Is that gnarly branch in the final photo solid enough to make a tobacco pipe?
The reason for trimming the lower leaves, for me, is that growing in small containers the lower leaves block my access to watering as they lay on top of the mulch and sometimes cover it completely. When the plants start getting large, they will use every bit of water in a container that small every day and must be watered daily. It's just easier for me to water without having to bend over and go under the leaves. BTW, great looking seedlings you have there.Plants are looking great.
As far as removing bottom leaves I can say that any leaf no matter the size or if it's even mostly damaged will still grow, photosynthesize and help thicken the stem.
When I grew poinsettia trees, I would start with a small, rooted plant and remove all suckers to make a long, tall stalk. The leaves on the stalk would get huge and the trunk would get heavy and strong. A young grower friend of mine, removed his leaves and his stalks were a third the height and thickness of mine. Just a note in passing.
The nicotine in my dark tobacco is very high because I left them to fully ripen and gain a lot of sticky resin. I'm very happy with them. When you are making dip, do you add a base like sodium carbonate to free base the nicotine? Also I like to finish my plants on the dry side so they concentrate their resins and produce more. Tobacco is similar to other plants I have grown commercially so I can use many of the same methods.
One thing I havent tried with bacca plants yet is to manipulate the upright growth into being shorter and making the stems much stronger by using the plants response to gravity and light. I lay the plant on its side. The growing tip will grow away from the earth and towards the sun. After a day, I'll rotate the plant and it will reverse its growth the other way. After a few days if this the stems get very hard and the growth isnt vertical as fast. Makes the stems thick and hard. Might not be practical in flat growing tobacco plants but in small plants you could just lay the plant on its side and roll them a bit. I'll probably try this method on bacca next growing cycle. Most common methods for growing tight, compact plants is high light levels, adequate fertilizer and keeping the plant on the drier side. Air movement is also a good method to thicken stems. Cool days and warm nights advance the growth of short, compact plants but warm, humid days and cooler nights cause plants to stretch. I had never heard of using the haircut method of slowing vertical growth and thickening stems. I never did this with mine this year, just used my traditional methods described above. Will try it on some of next years crop. I grew my transplants in 72 trays and transplanted to the garden from that 6 pack size.
In order to get heavier plants are you able to grow directly in the ground instead of pots?
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That doesn't happen with a hydroponic method, after the plants are harvested, when I pull up the stumps, every bit of the grow media comes out with a solid root ball all the way around.When growing in containers in the nursery, plants on outside rows, facing sun side wouldn't have root growth on the side that was hot from the sun. One factor in the outside rows being shorter than interior plants. Always used dark pots because it was the industry standard.
No, they're filled with cypress mulch. There are 5/16 inch holes drilled about 2 1/2 inches up from the bottom and they are fed daily with soluble fertilizer mixed with water. It's a passive hydroponic system. The holes provide drainage and aeration for the roots. The mulch, when saturated, holds moisture and is still loose enough to have plenty of air flow between the wood chips. The bottom 2 1/2 inches server as a small reservoir. It would be just about impossible for the plants to drown from overwatering.Those black and white buckets sitting outside in rows are not in soil?
Do you have to pin em down so they dont blow over?No, they're filled with cypress mulch. There are 5/16 inch holes drilled about 2 1/2 inches up from the bottom and they are fed daily with soluble fertilizer mixed with water. It's a passive hydroponic system. The holes provide drainage and aeration for the roots. The mulch, when saturated, holds moisture and is still loose enough to have plenty of air flow between the wood chips. The bottom 2 1/2 inches server as a small reservoir. It would be just about impossible for the plants to drown from overwatering.