KoceFF first grow blog 2021
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koceff
Well-Known Member
2 strings PA Red second priming from 1 week ago with beautiful yellow colour. 2 strings third priming from yesterday and 1 string Bolivian Criollo Black 1st priming from week ago. In total there are 17 strings and I still have to prime the top leaves of PA Red and Corojo, 2 primings left for the Bolivian and the H2000 did not grow good so i left it to yellow on the stalk and now it is time to stalk cut it.
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Cray Squirrel
Squirreled a lot!!
Looks like you have lots of good leaf there and are working hard to keep ahead of all the primings.
Good Job!!
Good Job!!
koceff
Well-Known Member
Corojo, PA Red and Bolivian Criollo Black are waiting for the weather to settle so they can be primed for the last time. I noticed mold forming on some of the leaf that is curing, mostly on the Bolivian and got rid of those leaves. The other thing I noticed is on the Corojo in the field and I don't know what it is so I took a photo.
Attachments
Cray Squirrel
Squirreled a lot!!
It has the Alternaria leaf spot look that I have seen a lot on ornamental plants over the years. Warm and moist conditions are factors. Seen it even cooler but free moisture on the leaf makes it worse for me. Probably the same on tobacco. Thats my guess.
How's the color curing going on that first big batch of leaves you hung? Should be yellowed and starting to wilt and dry huh? My last set of dark air black mammoth and burley is yellowing and starting to finally brown after 6 days.
Ive got 2 sets of primings hung and yellowed since then in my color sure chamber but my conditions are more controlled.
25 C. And 70 to 79% humidity.
When I get mold, I just cut that 4 or 5 cm piece of stalk and a bit of lamina with scissors and throw it away. If I get the house burn rot I throw the leaf away if I didnt catch it in time. I find by keeping it warmer and more humid shortens the time of risk for me and I don't worry much about green leaf.
The last sets of primings are slower to cure for me. I think the cooler nights have slowed the.leaf ripening.
You have a lot of leaf to show for all your hard work. Now perhaps you wont have to drive so much.
Great Job!!
How's the color curing going on that first big batch of leaves you hung? Should be yellowed and starting to wilt and dry huh? My last set of dark air black mammoth and burley is yellowing and starting to finally brown after 6 days.
Ive got 2 sets of primings hung and yellowed since then in my color sure chamber but my conditions are more controlled.
25 C. And 70 to 79% humidity.
When I get mold, I just cut that 4 or 5 cm piece of stalk and a bit of lamina with scissors and throw it away. If I get the house burn rot I throw the leaf away if I didnt catch it in time. I find by keeping it warmer and more humid shortens the time of risk for me and I don't worry much about green leaf.
The last sets of primings are slower to cure for me. I think the cooler nights have slowed the.leaf ripening.
You have a lot of leaf to show for all your hard work. Now perhaps you wont have to drive so much.
Great Job!!
koceff
Well-Known Member
Nothing left to prime. Everything is in the attic hanging on the strings and waiting. Actually I am waiting. Also trying to figure out how to convert my chest freezer in to a kiln. It will be outside so that might be a problem.
While I am waiting i ordered new seeds form e-bay: Criollo 98,, Dominican Olor, Little Dutch and Florida Sumatra. I have a ton of CT Broadleaf and PA Red seeds from this season growth and some left over Corojo seeds. So seven different strains for next year. I think all will be sun grown,
Few things I learned as a first time grower :
1. Next season start your seedlings at least month earlier This year I waited for the last frost to start them.
2. Transplant to individual cups earlier. I did this late this time and it took longer to grow.
3. May is perfect for transplanting in the field. May, not July when the temperature is above 100 f. and no rain.
4. Select only the strongest seedlings for the field. If the seedling is week the plant won't grow the way it should.
5. No weed is to small. Get rid of it as soon as you see it. You leave it a few days and you have a lot bigger problem.
6. Don't air cure inside if you don't have proper ventilation and humidity. Inside bad - Outside good. But not in the sun.
7. All of the primings should be done before August ends, After that the leaves will have trouble air curing but would be happy to mold.
8. When you string the leaves don't press them together too much, leave a little space for them to breathe.
9. Use this forum as much as you can. I knew nothing about growing tobacco this time last year and now i know nothing too but I know where to ask. Thank you to all of you here.
While I am waiting i ordered new seeds form e-bay: Criollo 98,, Dominican Olor, Little Dutch and Florida Sumatra. I have a ton of CT Broadleaf and PA Red seeds from this season growth and some left over Corojo seeds. So seven different strains for next year. I think all will be sun grown,
Few things I learned as a first time grower :
1. Next season start your seedlings at least month earlier This year I waited for the last frost to start them.
2. Transplant to individual cups earlier. I did this late this time and it took longer to grow.
3. May is perfect for transplanting in the field. May, not July when the temperature is above 100 f. and no rain.
4. Select only the strongest seedlings for the field. If the seedling is week the plant won't grow the way it should.
5. No weed is to small. Get rid of it as soon as you see it. You leave it a few days and you have a lot bigger problem.
6. Don't air cure inside if you don't have proper ventilation and humidity. Inside bad - Outside good. But not in the sun.
7. All of the primings should be done before August ends, After that the leaves will have trouble air curing but would be happy to mold.
8. When you string the leaves don't press them together too much, leave a little space for them to breathe.
9. Use this forum as much as you can. I knew nothing about growing tobacco this time last year and now i know nothing too but I know where to ask. Thank you to all of you here.
The most valuable product of your grow is the insightful list of tips for next year. Bravo!
Bob
Bob
koceff
Well-Known Member
Sometime in July I left one small plastic bag with some of my air cured test crop out in the sun and sprayed it with water from time to time. It was a mix of couple of the strains I was growing. After some time I forgot about it. Today i came across it and opened it. Man oh man oh man.... The smell is out of this world. Sweet, soft.... I am also cologne collector and have a few tobacco fragrances but after this I think I've just found my signature scent.
Homegrowngoodnes
Well-Known Member
Signature scent huh? Hopefully you can duplicate it then!
koceff
Well-Known Member
@Homegrowngoodnes Thankfully i have enough leaf to try.
koceff
Well-Known Member
koceff
Well-Known Member
Closing the season and preparing the soil for the winter.
Out of curiosity, did you pull up and discard the old tobacco roots? Tobacco pests and diseases can over winter in the old tobacco refuse and roots. I pull mine up and burn them.
koceff
Well-Known Member
@Knucklehead Yes, no roots left. Physically the most demanding job for me.
On another topic, Can't find it where it was but I know I've seen it here, what is the highest temperature I can run my kiln and why?
On another topic, Can't find it where it was but I know I've seen it here, what is the highest temperature I can run my kiln and why?
Above about 135°F, kilned tobacco begins to acquire a subtle, "toasted" aroma. Above ~149°F, the primary oxidase enzyme (for "aging" or "fermentation") is destroyed. The much slower oxidase enzyme is destroyed around 190°F.
Bob
Bob
koceff
Well-Known Member
@deluxestogie That's what i was looking for. So above 149F the fermentation is destroyed or that's above 190F?
There are two primary oxidizing enzymes. The fastest and most active is destroyed at about 149°F. For fermentation, rather than gradual and very, very slow aging, stay safely below 149°F. I would suggest staying below 130°F, since higher temps cause other changes.
Bob
Bob
koceff
Well-Known Member
One more thing I've learned this year as a first time grower, and this is by far the most important one, NEVER try to smell the tobacco seds up close. For next year i am not going to need a backyard or a garden, they gonna grow out of my nose.
I look forward to the grow blog pics of this
and hope it does not affect your judgement of the signature scent
