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Anders A Grow Log 2024

deluxestogie

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The standards that I use are taken from the USDA ARS-GRIN standards for tobacco plant measurement. They are arbitrary, but they help to assure that everyone is measuring the same thing.

1. I usually top my plants just below the crow's foot. This allows me to obtain dark, more potent top leaf. Commercial growers may have different priorities. So my topped Tofta and untopped Tofta are the same height, because...

Tofta 2024-07-20 2_Anders.jpg

[The "crowfoot" or "crow's foot" is the point on the stalk at which the bud branches begin to spread. Sometimes it is just a guess.]

...the standard measurement is from the ground to the crow's foot. The additional height of the bud head is not measured.

2. The standard "days at maturity" are measured from transplant date to the date at which at least 50% of the plants show at least one open blossom.

3. The standard for leaf count is to disregard the two bottom leaves (actually the cotyledons), then count the remainder. So if you throw away two more leaves (or 6 more leaves) the leaf count is still the same—from the base of the stalk, not counting the two bottom leaves.

4. For commercial growers, the labor cost is proportional to the leaf count, rather than the total yield weight. For home growers, you decide if you wish to have larger mid- and mid-upper leaves, or have some additional top leaf (corona) for blending. For a lower leaf count of somewhat larger leaves, top lower. To get the corona leaf, top just below the crow's foot.

5. Leaf measurement is the 10th leaf from the bottom, again disregarding the two bottom leaves. The 10th leaf is often not the largest on the plant, but it is the (arbitrary) standard for comparison.

6. My own decision for stalk-cutting is based on when the top leaf begins to show signs of maturation. I never consider a specific day count. If most of a particular variety appear ready, then I usually stalk-cut them all on the same day. If there is great variability in maturation from one plant to the next, then I either wait for the slowest ones, or selectively stalk-cut the plants individually, as they mature. If you stalk-cut a plant before the upper leaf is showing at least thickening and increased rugosity, then those upper leaves will likely not color-cure as well as the other leaves on the stalk.

I have to emphasize that there is no magic or "proper" timing of any of this. For commercial growers, who often have to bring in additional, temporary labor, having a rough idea of when you will need that extra labor is useful. But the guidelines are always just a generalized guess. And the arbitrarily chosen documentation standards are simply for meaningful comparisons worldwide.

Bob
 

Anders A

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The standards that I use are taken from the USDA ARS-GRIN standards for tobacco plant measurement. They are arbitrary, but they help to assure that everyone is measuring the same thing.

1. I usually top my plants just below the crow's foot. This allows me to obtain dark, more potent top leaf. Commercial growers may have different priorities. So my topped Tofta and untopped Tofta are the same height, because...

Tofta 2024-07-20 2_Anders.jpg

[The "crowfoot" or "crow's foot" is the point on the stalk at which the bud branches begin to spread. Sometimes it is just a guess.]

...the standard measurement is from the ground to the crow's foot. The additional height of the bud head is not measured.

2. The standard "days at maturity" are measured from transplant date to the date at which at least 50% of the plants show at least one open blossom.

3. The standard for leaf count is to disregard the two bottom leaves (actually the cotyledons), then count the remainder. So if you throw away two more leaves (or 6 more leaves) the leaf count is still the same—from the base of the stalk, not counting the two bottom leaves.

4. For commercial growers, the labor cost is proportional to the leaf count, rather than the total yield weight. For home growers, you decide if you wish to have larger mid- and mid-upper leaves, or have some additional top leaf (corona) for blending. For a lower leaf count of somewhat larger leaves, top lower. To get the corona leaf, top just below the crow's foot.

5. Leaf measurement is the 10th leaf from the bottom, again disregarding the two bottom leaves. The 10th leaf is often not the largest on the plant, but it is the (arbitrary) standard for comparison.

6. My own decision for stalk-cutting is based on when the top leaf begins to show signs of maturation. I never consider a specific day count. If most of a particular variety appear ready, then I usually stalk-cut them all on the same day. If there is great variability in maturation from one plant to the next, then I either wait for the slowest ones, or selectively stalk-cut the plants individually, as they mature. If you stalk-cut a plant before the upper leaf is showing at least thickening and increased rugosity, then those upper leaves will likely not color-cure as well as the other leaves on the stalk.

I have to emphasize that there is no magic or "proper" timing of any of this. For commercial growers, who often have to bring in additional, temporary labor, having a rough idea of when you will need that extra labor is useful. But the guidelines are always just a generalized guess. And the arbitrarily chosen documentation standards are simply for meaningful comparisons worldwide.

Bob

Thanks Bob for taking the time to explain. Today I will top them all, then I will do as I did last year on my Tofta, (as well as the other varieties), wait for signs of maturity, also on the upper leaves. The color cure went very well last year.
 

Anders A

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1. I usually top my plants just below the crow's foot. This allows me to obtain dark, more potent top leaf. Commercial growers may have different priorities. So my topped Tofta and untopped Tofta are the same height, because.

Do you usually also top other varieties in the same place (just below the crow´s foot)?
 
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deluxestogie

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When topping plants of any variety (other than Oriental) that blossom earlier in the growing season, I usually top just below the crow's foot. The later that a plant begins to blossom, the more likely I am to top lower on the stalk, with the goal of hurrying the maturation of the leaves. As the end of a growing season approaches, I may top the laggards above the highest nice looking leaf.

I've been growing tobacco for enough years that I now find it difficult to explain my micro-decisions, since my choices have become more intuitive than carefully calculated.

Bob
 

Anders A

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Half of my 48 Tofta flowered on July 19, which was 56 days after planting. And yesterday (58 days after planting) I topped all of them except for one that I'm going to take seeds from. Many of the leaves are already showing signs of maturity, especially the lower ones.

Tofta 2024-07-21 1.jpeg

Tofta 2024-07-21 2.jpeg

Tofta 2024-07-21 3.jpeg

Tofta 2024-07-21 4.jpeg

Tofta 2024-07-21 5.jpeg
 

FrostD

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Half of my 48 Tofta flowered on July 19, which was 56 days after planting. And yesterday (58 days after planting) I topped all of them except for one that I'm going to take seeds from. Many of the leaves are already showing signs of maturity, especially the lower ones.

View attachment 52260

View attachment 52261

View attachment 52262

View attachment 52263

View attachment 52264
Love seeing your grows @Anders A ! I noticed you got a furry helper out there. They look to be enjoying keeping your plants in line :)
 

Anders A

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My PY KY171 DAC look amazing now.
61 days since transplanting and the flower buds have appeared on each plant.
A new variety for me. Very exciting variety to try. I have 38 plants of them and take care of each plant as if it were my only child :)

"PY KY 171 is a pale yellow breeding line that is agronomicaly comparable to KY 171. It is a dark fire-cured tobacco with high resistance to black root rot, wildfire, and TMV. The plants grow to a height of 5-6 feet to the flower and produce from 14 to 17 leaves per plant. The leaves grow in a semi- erect position, averaging 11-13 inches in width and 24-30 inches in length with good overall yields. Maturity is in 60-65 days. The leaves turn yellow about 4 weeks after topping, whereas, KY 171 stays green making the "PY" strain easier to color cure. Nicotine level by dry weight 5.31% compared to 4.70% for KY 171."/ text from Northwest Tobacco Seeds

PY KY171 DAC.jpeg
 
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Knucklehead

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My PY KY171 DAC look amazing now.
61 days since transplanting and the flower buds have appeared on each plant.
A new variety for me. Very exciting variety to try. I have 38 plants of them and take care of each plant as if it were my only child :)

"PY KY 171 is a pale yellow breeding line that is agronomicaly comparable to KY 171. It is a dark fire-cured tobacco with high resistance to black root rot, wildfire, and TMV. The plants grow to a height of 5-6 feet to the flower and produce from 14 to 17 leaves per plant. The leaves grow in a semi- erect position, averaging 11-13 inches in width and 24-30 inches in length with good overall yields. Maturity is in 60-65 days. The leaves turn yellow about 4 weeks after topping, whereas, KY 171 stays green making the "PY" strain easier to color cure. Nicotine level by dry weight 5.31% compared to 4.70% for KY 171."/ text from Northwest Tobacco Seeds

View attachment 52304

Very clean leaf. What pests do you have? Aphids or hornworms?
Thats a field to be proud of.
 

deluxestogie

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If you look at PY KY 171 on the USDA ARS-GRIN website:


...select Observations
...select Show All Rows

you will see that even some of the basic data is not adequately documented. [It was apparently observed by GRIN from only a single grow-out, by a single grower, in 2015, even though the variety was developed and published in 1994.] I would encourage you to record some actual measurements on your data collection sheet, to share on the forum.

Bob
 

Anders A

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If you look at PY KY 171 on the USDA ARS-GRIN website:


...select Observations
...select Show All Rows

you will see that even some of the basic data is not adequately documented. [It was apparently observed by GRIN from only a single grow-out, by a single grower, in 2015, even though the variety was developed and published in 1994.] I would encourage you to record some actual measurements on your data collection sheet, to share on the forum.

Bob

I plan to do that, similar to your data sheet. Of the varieties I grow this year, I have mostly PY KY171, 38 plants, Virginia Bright leaf, 38 plants and Tofta, 48 plants. I've been taking notes from the time I planted the seeds, and continue through harvest, and plan to compile data sheets on these three.
 

WillQuantrill

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I plan to do that, similar to your data sheet. Of the varieties I grow this year, I have mostly PY KY171, 38 plants, Virginia Bright leaf, 38 plants and Tofta, 48 plants. I've been taking notes from the time I planted the seeds, and continue through harvest, and plan to compile data sheets on these three.
For Science!
 

Anders A

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When topping plants of any variety (other than Oriental) that blossom earlier in the growing season, I usually top just below the crow's foot. The later that a plant begins to blossom, the more likely I am to top lower on the stalk, with the goal of hurrying the maturation of the leaves. As the end of a growing season approaches, I may top the laggards above the highest nice looking leaf.

I've been growing tobacco for enough years that I now find it difficult to explain my micro-decisions, since my choices have become more intuitive than carefully calculated.

Bob
What do you think are the most important reasons for topping the plants? Bigger leaves? Higher nicotine content? Something else? Do you speed up the ripening time a lot by topping the plant? Are there only benefits to topping the plant?
 

deluxestogie

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...most important reasons for topping the plants?
  • Bigger leaves?: yes
  • Higher nicotine content?: yes
  • Something else?: reduced plant pests; some control over ripening time; synchronization of ripening among multiple plants; reduce likelihood of blow-down
  • Do you speed up the ripening time a lot by topping the plant?: it is quite noticeable
  • Are there only benefits to topping the plant?: there is no free lunch—always a trade-off.
    • more labor to top than not top
    • more prolific suckering
    • likely loss of some of the more subtle aroma volatiles
Bob
 
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Anders A

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...most important reasons for topping the plants?
  • Bigger leaves?: yes
  • Higher nicotine content?: yes
  • Something else?: reduced plant pests; some control over ripening time; synchronization of ripening among multiple plants; reduce likelihood of blow-down
  • Do you speed up the ripening time a lot by topping the plant?: it is quite noticeable
  • Are there only benefits to topping the plant?: there is no free lunch—always a trade-off.
    • more labor to top than not top
    • more prolific suckering
    • likely loss of some of the more subtle aroma volatiles
Bob

Thanks Bob, you are amazing taking the time to answer all questions and concerns :)
 

manfisher

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How do you plan on curing? Will you stock cure or pick the leaves individually?
 
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