deluxestogie Grow Log 2014

[Bex]

This is extremely interesting, particularly as you advise the leaf was green and crispy dry, and yet, when exposed to the elements (and presumably moistened somewhat with rain, etc??) the leaf now shows some change. There must be some 'chemistry' still going on, that has removed the chlorophyll from parts of those leaves and turns them brown - otherwise, I would assume that they would just stay green and crispy. I guess this is similar to what happens on trees? That the leaf is no longer being fed, so the chlorophyll deteriorates leaving the brown leaf? In any event, the result of your experiment will be interesting (for those of us who have cured and still have green leaf after that process....perhaps there is still hope.....)

 

[deluxestogie]

When a tobacco leaf color-cures properly, the chlorophyll is degraded by the living, metabolic process of senescence, exposing the carotinoid (yellow and orange) pigments that were already in the leaf. The process of turning brown is an indication of the progressive death of the leaf.

Besides breakdown of chlorophyll, other biochemical processes also need to occur during curing. Albuminous proteins are degraded (liberating ammonia as a byproduct), and carbohydrates are altered.

Any leaf of any species of plant that dries green will retain much of its chlorophyll, if kept in darkness: preserved leaf specimens in botanical libraries; dried parsley from the grocer. But, if that same, green dried leaf is subsequently exposed to the sun, the chlorophyll is eventually degraded.

The question that remains, with regard to my "winter sun-curing" is whether or not the other important chemical changes occur. I have a jar of home-grown, whole parsley leaf from 4 years ago. It has suffered from sun exposure, and is all now a light, dull brown. But it still flavors food like parsley--it just looks ugly. What do you get with tobacco treated this way? I don't know.

Bob

 

[rustycase]

Thanks for running the experiment, Bob!
It's very interesting for me.
The season is beginning to run cooler here in Kalifornia, and the plants are slowing down.
I've got a lot of bulk in the leaf remaining on the plants, but it's mostly smaller, ranging up to almost a medium leaf.
Hoping to get a chance of stalk hanging a bunch, throwing a plastic tent over it, then a bunch of rotting apples and pears in the bottom, to generate ethylene gas and force browning. I'll put up a post if something works out...
Gosh I don't like messing with a buncha small leaf!
Maybe not so bad threading a string through a bit of oriental, but still takes a buncha time for the volume.
Best
rc

 

[deluxestogie]

The leaf looks noticeably better now, compared to yesterday. So, with the first few drops of rain falling, I chickened out, carrying all three strings back to the shed for the night. By tomorrow, the sun will be out, and the temps significantly warmer. Despite its avoidance of washing behind its ears, I will treat it to more sunshine tomorrow.

rc, I would stalk harvest all the small leaf stuff.

Bob

 

[Bex]

I imagine the parsley is bleached by the sun. They can do this with photography, too, basically keeping the leaf alive, yet pressing a negative over the surface of the leaf, so that the sun bleaches the image into the leaf surface - while the surface of the leaf not exposed retains the chlorophyll for as long as the leaf is allowed to remain living. Like this:
http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/chlorophyll-process/the-chlorophyll-process

 

[ChinaVoodoo]

Would running full spectrum grow lights while curing indoors also accomplish this?

 

[istanbulin]

UV radiation is responsible for fading (UV degradation). In plants, UV affects chlorophyll by degrading the chromophore regions of the molecule. By this way, dead leaves that are exposed to sunlight become less green, they fade. Living plants can protect chlorophyll and other photosynthetic tissues by accumulating some UV absorbant compounds (e.g. flavonoids and anthocyanins etc.) on uppermost section of leaf surface (epidermis). By this way epidermis become an UV blocker so leaves don't fade. Even it's always said thay have, most grow lights don't have an effective UV spectrum and already plants do not need it for photosynthesis, some of them use it for other purposes like attracting some insects. So if you want to degrade chlorophyll indoors you need a xenon arc lamp to mimic sunlight which is expensive to obtain and operate. On the other hand, sunlight is free outside.

 

[deluxestogie]

UV radiation is responsible for fading...sunlight is free outside.

I agree. So far, I have had to pay nothing for my sunlight. But sometimes, you get what you pay for. Much of my "sun-curing" has actually been cloud-curing. Perhaps a black light would be useful for indoor treatment.

Bob

 

[ArizonaDave]

I agree. So far, I have had to pay nothing for my sunlight. But sometimes, you get what you pay for. Much of my "sun-curing" has actually been cloud-curing. Perhaps a black light would be useful for indoor treatment.

Bob

Ok, your posts on this thread have clarified something that has been on my mind, as I have been curing my own, some indoors, some outdoors. I'm going to attach a couple pictures here. They are on an 18" X 18" Ceramic tile.

First picture of them green. Ergo Burley, a mislabeled plant 2nd, and VA. Gold, 3rd:


Yes, from my 1st "Fall grow"

2nd pic is of stages of air curing leaves, VA Gold (1st 3), and trying to color cure a green leaf (last 2 leaves). Note, the last two, just go from green to brown:

Now, if there's anything wrong with any of these, I'm open to suggestion!

 

[ChinaVoodoo]

I have one of these: http://m.ebay.ca/itm/251669198513?nav=SEARCH
It puts out 365nm at 100W. Should be good, I think.Magnaflux sells a 150W self ballasted bulb. Might do good too.

 

[deluxestogie]

My comment about black light was a theoretical one, in response to istanbulin's comment. The point about sun exposure for dried green leaf is the possibility of salvaging smokable leaf from what would otherwise be trash. It may turn brown, but still be unsmokable. As for purchased solutions, I'll await the experimental results of our wealthier members.

Bob

 

[rustycase]

Thank you DS,
I should give it a try... but... yikes! I'm out of room!!!
I've got leaf hanging everywhere that tools, bicycles, and mc's are not!
Teepee is just abt full up. But I shall try!
rc

 

[ChinaVoodoo]

My comment about black light was a theoretical one, in response to istanbulin's comment. The point about sun exposure for dried green leaf is the possibility of salvaging smokable leaf from what would otherwise be trash. It may turn brown, but still be unsmokable. As for purchased solutions, I'll await the experimental results of our wealthier members.

Bob

I actually enjoy playing around with lights and wavelengths. I don't understand plant biology all that well, but if there is some evidence that your sun curing is working, and a reasonable theory as to why it would work, I'm all for giving it a go. I am fermenting my tobacco in a cooler, packed in mason jars, with a fan and light bulbs for heat. I saw at the pet store self ballasted 13W bulbs for reptiles that give off UVA&UVB. Now, it's only 13W, but with the inverse square law, the tobacco being really close to the bulb, heck, why not try it? Maybe I'll notice a difference between the tobacco on the outside of the jars, versus inside, and a difference between the close jars and the far jars. Another thought I had, and this is going into my curing room next year, is UVC emitting T8 fluorescent bulbs for killing airborne contaminants, ESP. mold. I'm sure they also give off UVA&UVB. http://www.bulbs.com/Germicidal_Lamps/results.aspx

 

[deluxestogie]

Keep in mind that folks were able to successfully cure tobacco in the days before Maxwell.

Bob

 

[ChinaVoodoo]

Absolutely. I shouldn't forget the reward of patience and simplicity.

 

[cyrilraymond]

Excellent information Deluxe Stogie!!!

 

[deluxestogie]

Java Besuki Home-grown Wrapper

This mottled, leaf, with the general appearance of a white-stem burley, did not seem all that promising as a wrapper, despite it's impressive size. Now, a batch of it has come out of my kiln, has rested, and is ready for wrapping.

As you can see, the mottling of the green leaf seems to have zero impact on the final color-cured leaf. The leaves shown here are from mid-stalk and upper stalk (the smaller one). Since it was grown in full sun, the home-grown Besuki is not as tissue-thin as commercial Besuki (which might best be described as cloud-grown). But it does show its heritage in excellent stretchiness and tensile strength.

It's color is richer than commercial Besuki, and its contribution to the flavor is somewhat greater than that of commercial Besuki.

The downsides of growing Besuki are

• that it, like white-stem burleys, tends to be an aphid magnet,
• and it suckers prolifically.

If you can deal with aphids and suckers, then this is a great addition to the short list of wrapper varieties that do well when grown in full sun.

Bob

 

[Cigar]

Very nice looking leaf Deluxstogie..love the color of it..btw my biggest problem also has been the hated aphids.

Cigar

 

[ArizonaDave]

Very nice looking leaf Deluxstogie..love the color of it..btw my biggest problem also has been the hated aphids.

Cigar

I agree! Nice looking leaf! Cigar, I take care of the aphids by mixing garlic, dawn, and water. It seems to keep away the Grasshoppers too, and hornworms. The reason I know, is I left one plant (now dead) w/o, and all I saw was aphids, one hornworm, and grass hoppers.

 

[Bex]

Now, a batch of it has come out of my kiln, has rested, and is ready for wrapping.

Bob

Newb question - this was one of those 30 day kiln runs, at 50C/70% RH??