AmaxB
Well-Known Member
Re: Leverhead's 2013 T Patches
Miller Time
Miller Time
Leverhead's 2013 T Patches; SE Texas
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leverhead
Well-Known Member
Re: Leverhead's 2013 T Patches
I had a shiner once. Didn't like it. Made me look like a raccoon. LOL
Boboro
Well-Known Member
Re: Leverhead's 2013 T Patches
The Beast is the best and you kant beat the price.
The Beast is the best and you kant beat the price.
leverhead
Well-Known Member
Re: Leverhead's 2013 T Patches
I've noticed that side effect, but only after drinking too many.
I've noticed that side effect, but only after drinking too many.
DonH
Well-Known Member
leverhead
Well-Known Member
Re: Leverhead's 2013 T Patches
Characterisitcs of Turkish tobaccos show really very different variations according to the region where they grow (and of course according to their breed).
Turkish tobaccos are generally classified by their growing regions so planting densities vary from region to region here's a table for different regions and also for different varieties.
Note : Tobacco farmers never use float beds here, they grow the seedlings in high populated beds and plant them directly to soil (with naked root, without any soil). Seedling loss is common so there's not an accurate density. This densities are given according to this method. So you may inspire from this and try to improve your own method.
Don - Istanbulin posted a chart of the traditional plant and row spacing they use in Turkey. Lever and I are both trying the traditional methods to see if we can achieve the same taste, aroma, etc. of true Oriental grown tobaccos as opposed to the Orientals grown by American spacing, fertilizing, topping, etc. We'll trade some around to see if it makes any difference. If there is no difference, the American methods produce larger leaf and more weight per plant. Chart is here:
Characterisitcs of Turkish tobaccos show really very different variations according to the region where they grow (and of course according to their breed).
Turkish tobaccos are generally classified by their growing regions so planting densities vary from region to region here's a table for different regions and also for different varieties.
| Variety | Space between two rows (cm / inch) | Space between plants in a row (cm / inch) |
| Aegean (İzmir) | 40 / 15.7 | 5–10 / 2-3.9 |
| Basma, Gümüşhacıköy, Xanthi | 40 / 15.7 | 15 / 5.9 |
| Black Sea (Karadeniz) | 40 / 15.7 | 20 / 7.9 |
| East - Southeast (Doğu-Güneydoğu) | 50 / 19.7 | 20 / 7.9 |
| Virginia - Burley | 100 / 34.9 | 80 / 31.5 |
| Tömbeki (Tombac) | 100 / 34.9 | 80 / 31.5 |
| Hasankeyf (N. rustica) | 80 / 31.5 | 40 / 15.7 |
Note : Tobacco farmers never use float beds here, they grow the seedlings in high populated beds and plant them directly to soil (with naked root, without any soil). Seedling loss is common so there's not an accurate density. This densities are given according to this method. So you may inspire from this and try to improve your own method.
DonH
Well-Known Member
Re: Leverhead's 2013 T Patches
Thanks, that's helpful. I guess when I first read that I must have been thinking inches not centimeters. More plants then in my limited space.
Thanks, that's helpful. I guess when I first read that I must have been thinking inches not centimeters. More plants then in my limited space.
leverhead
Well-Known Member
Re: Leverhead's 2013 T Patches
More plants, more work. If I take out for the Virginias, I'm down to 25 hours to plant about 800 plants. Seedling time remains the same, a little less than 2 hours per 72 seedlings. Harvest and cure time remain to be seen, yield per plant or per square foot will be around the holidays. I still think it's an interesting experiment, if it goes well I might try growing seedlings in a bed next year.
More plants, more work. If I take out for the Virginias, I'm down to 25 hours to plant about 800 plants. Seedling time remains the same, a little less than 2 hours per 72 seedlings. Harvest and cure time remain to be seen, yield per plant or per square foot will be around the holidays. I still think it's an interesting experiment, if it goes well I might try growing seedlings in a bed next year.
Fisherman
Well-Known Member
Re: Leverhead's 2013 T Patches
Not really but John isnt selling many cars so I guess I can rent a few more parking lots
Not really but John isnt selling many cars so I guess I can rent a few more parking lots
leverhead
Well-Known Member
Re: Leverhead's 2013 T Patches
T-Patches can be plural now, I finished T-Patch II this weekend. The soil at my house is like quick sand when wet and like concrete when dry. The Yellow Twist Bud I tried to grow there last year ended up with knots all over the roots and had quit growing. So I built a 4' X 8' X 11" raised bed, it holds about 1 cubic yard of soil I got by T-Patch I. I put some Turkish/Oriental varieties in it that I had small quantities of and filled in the leftover space with some varieties that I have in T-Patch I. The plant to plant spacing is the same as the traditional plant spacing without the row space, I can compare the plants from both places with the layout being the biggest difference. The soil and rate of fertilizer is the same, with a little less sun at the house.
T-Patches can be plural now, I finished T-Patch II this weekend. The soil at my house is like quick sand when wet and like concrete when dry. The Yellow Twist Bud I tried to grow there last year ended up with knots all over the roots and had quit growing. So I built a 4' X 8' X 11" raised bed, it holds about 1 cubic yard of soil I got by T-Patch I. I put some Turkish/Oriental varieties in it that I had small quantities of and filled in the leftover space with some varieties that I have in T-Patch I. The plant to plant spacing is the same as the traditional plant spacing without the row space, I can compare the plants from both places with the layout being the biggest difference. The soil and rate of fertilizer is the same, with a little less sun at the house.
BarG
Founding Member
Do you think the knots on roots could be root nematodes? A microscopic worm -parasite that can cause knots on roots. By the way Thats a cool looking seed starting bed for next year also.
leverhead
Well-Known Member
I think it was nematodes, but I have no good way to be certain. It's lined with plastic to try to stop the little buggers. I brought the soil down from Conroe, so Harris County has at least some good soil in it now. It would grow allot of seedlings!
leverhead
Well-Known Member
Thanks Bob! It sure looks like it, I didn't know they got to Okra too. My Wife has tomatoes and beans where the YTB was last year, they seem to be doing well.
Fisherman
Well-Known Member
Mr Leverhead............ Chitin in shrimp hulls [peelings] are effective against root nematodes. Also good fertilizer. So if you buy shrimp save the hulls and peelings.
leverhead
Well-Known Member
Thanks Fisherman! I learn something new every day. I knew shrimp heads would run off about anything, I will have to try the peels. I wonder if feather meal would do the same thing?
Fisherman
Well-Known Member
Soil amendments used for nematode control can be placed into four categories: inorganics, animal-based, plant-based, and microbial. Except for inorganics (such as ammonium sulfate fertilizer and powdered rock), nematode suppression from most amendments is at least partly the result of biological control. Animal-based amendments include chitin-containing crab shells and shrimp shells that apparently stimulate populations of soil-dwelling fungi that feed on chitin. Because chitin is a component of nematodes' egg shells, these chitin-feeding fungi also feed on these egg shells. Incorporating animal manure, organic fertilizers, crop residue, and compost increases the organic matter content of soil. This improves water and nutrient availability to plants, reduces plant stress, and can encourage greater numbers of nematode predators and parasites. However, organic amendments sometimes contain contaminants such as weed seeds, and their effectiveness is largely limited to the depth of material incorporation.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/r280200111.html
What it does is grow a fungi that eats the chitin and chitin is what is in nematode egg cases. Feather meal would for sure add fertilizer but not sure if it contained chiting for the fungi. Growing rye cover crop and mariglods also work it says.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/r280200111.html
What it does is grow a fungi that eats the chitin and chitin is what is in nematode egg cases. Feather meal would for sure add fertilizer but not sure if it contained chiting for the fungi. Growing rye cover crop and mariglods also work it says.
In tomato production, to protect the plants from nematodes they use "Calendula officinalis". It's a yellow-orange flower that planted near the rows of tomatoes (see photo). It gets some excretions from its roots to the ground that protects very efficiently against nematodes.
Btw nematodes is a greek word from "nema" which means very thin string, to describe these little worms.
Btw nematodes is a greek word from "nema" which means very thin string, to describe these little worms.
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